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z008282 2018-4-20 22:53 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

11/20 Palenque--hotel camino verde
11/21 --Frontera corazon
11/22-- 瓜地馬拉花城(Flores),搭車

我喜歡跨越少旅客的關口,除了挑戰性,越多旅客的關口,往往越折騰的通關手續。續談之前,我先談一個我不太一樣的觀念:原則上,我不會和海關人員爭論『繳費換入境章』這件事。先進國家有一定規矩,不會有爭議,比較有問題的是發展中國家,常有被認為索賄現象。我不爭論的原因有幾個:首先,海關人員有絕對權力讓旅客入境與否,把他們惹毛不是開玩笑的。此外,發展中國家在冷門關口的海關人員常有薪資過低的問題,給他一些小費『支持』他好好工作,不要隨便找旅客麻煩,我不覺得有太多不妥。另外,在語言隔閡下,被旅客認為的索賄說不定不是索賄。

先介紹幾個文章將會不斷出現的地點名稱,或是你可以直接跳到倒數第五段:
Palenque:以列為世界文化遺產的馬雅古城著名的觀光城市。
Bonampak:另一個以壁畫著名的馬雅古城,遺址岔路口位於Palenque南方115公里處。
Frontera corazon:岔路口與Bonampak岔路口位於同條公路上,為前往瓜地馬拉與另一個馬雅古城Yuchitan的搭船渡口。Yuchitan只能搭船前往,無公路到達。

Bonampak,Yuchitan兩個馬雅古城,和從Frontera corazon搭船到對岸的瓜地馬拉都在我的計畫中。至於要怎麼安排,費了一番腦筋。

Yuchitan只能搭船前往,Bonampak需要搭乘接駁車,雖然在我預定線路上,可是我發現由Palenque找旅行團前往比較便宜,來回含門票早午餐運輸等僅800pesos,約47美金,不含導遊,所有Palenque的旅行社行程都不含導遊。

翌日,Palenque到瓜地馬拉的兩個關口,為了安全考量,我決定走交通較不便的Frontera corazon,而不是整路舖柏油的El Ceibo。中間在小旅館過夜後,11/21續往關口前進。也就是說,Frontera Corazon我到訪兩次,一次是跟團去Yuchitan,一次是自己通關。

我在路上預想到瓜地馬拉的狀況。面對80公里的爛路,我不確定我有哪些選項,所以我列出一個絕對不能做的事:搭乘不熟的私人計程車。搭船到對岸的瓜地馬拉後,移民檢查處還有12公里,我怎麼知道我下車通關時,駕駛會不會趁亂把我的行李載走。

但是事情出奇順利。到了Frontera corazon,這個以生態旅遊為主軸之一的小鎮(雖然餐廳桌巾潔淨的詭異),入住hotel Nueva Allianza,接下來我實在不敢相信自己的耳朵。

150pesos(9美金)住宿(共用浴廁),300pesos搭船加包車載到Flores。

那麼便宜,而且完全不用傷腦筋,旅館人員十分好心,翌日早上他先帶我到墨西哥移民局蓋出境章,幫我打電話給不知道過哪國時間的官員來開門上工,接下來他帶我到渡船頭。更神奇的是,對岸有個旅遊資訊站,裡面有會說英語的服務員,真是中頭獎。而中頭獎的不只我,還有旅遊資訊站旁邊的換錢小販,因為我拿出快3000pesos跟他換錢,而他提供的匯率也比我兩天前查到的好。搭包車的除了我還有一對德國情侶,男的在爛路上吐得亂七八糟,不知道回去會不會收到『dear John』。看來今天跨界的應該就我們三人。我很高興我沒有騎爛路,除了路真的糟,原來的雨林(在墨西哥還看得到)幾乎砍伐殆盡,黃沙中,半點涼蔭也沒有。Flores雖然位於瓜地馬拉,但是沒有太多貧窮的樣貌,這裡以馬雅遺址聞名,也是我未來一週的重頭戲。

1/20 Palenque--hotel camino verde
11/21 --Frontera corazon
11/22 --Flores, Guatemala by transportation

I like to cross the border less traveled. It's challenging sometimes, but usually with fewer hassles. Unlike some travelers, I don't argue with the customs officers with the “fees of cleaning custom” or fees regarded as a bride for many reasons, which is quite common in developing countries. First, they have absolutely right to decide to let me in or not, and it's not fun to piss them off. Second, I never understand if it's really a bride under the communication barriers. And the immigration officers in the developing countries are usually less paid. For me, it doesn't matter to “tip” them for doing a better job and not to give the traveler a difficult time. I don't prefer to judge someone before I really understand him.

I would like to introduce some locations in this leg. Or you could skip these to the last 5 paragraphs.

Palenque: A charming small town famous for its Mayan city listed in UNESCO.

Bonampak: A Mayan ruins with amazing murals.

Yuxchitan: Another attractive Mayan ruins only accessible by boat from Frontera Corazon.

Frontera Corazon: The Mexico border village with boat launch to Yuxchitan and Guatemala.

The four places above are around the same route. But I found it was cheaper to join a group from Palenque to both ruins, Bonampak and Yuxchitan. My original plan was to to cycle to Frontera corazon and visit the two sites on my way to the border village. So I actually travelled the route twice, once in a van and the other on the paddle. The price of the tour was 800 pesos(47USD), including transportation(vehicle and boat), the entrance fees, and two meals. No one in Palenque provided a tour package with a guide.

After the day of the tour, I decided to take the border of Frontera corazon instead of El Ceibo. The first one, which travelers have to take a boat to cross the border line, received fewer visitors and thought to be safer. But there was 80 km of rugged dirt road on Guatemalan side. Instead of guessing what the situation I will encounter once I cross, I listed one thing that I should never try. That is, DO NOT TAKE A ** TAXI OR TO HITCHHIKE WHICH I WAS NOT FAMILIAR WITH. The immigration office was located 12 km from the boat launch and I didn't know if the drive will take my baggage away when I am “checking-in”.

But things went much smoother than I expected. I arrived in Frontera Corazon, a border town famous for its otherwise inaccessible Mayan city Yuxchitan and eco tour, although I found the table cloth restaurant in the hotel were too spotless. I asked the hotel staff about the information.

“150 pesos(9 USD) for a single room(public toilet) and 300 pesos for the boat/** transportation to Flores, Guatemala.”

Bingo. So cheap and so easy. The staff was very helpful. On the next morning, he took me to the Mexico immigration office, gave the officer a wake-up call when we found the office was closed at the time it should be open. Then he took me to the boat launch. After crossing the boundary river, the boater took me to the bus stand 100 meters away, where I found a helpful tourist information and also an English-speaking staff. I was so lucky as if I hit the jackpot when I realized everything went so well. And the money changer also hit the jackpot because I exchanged almost 3000 pesos with him.( He provided very good rate.). There were another German couple to join the van travel to Flores, and it seemed that we were the only three people to cross this remote border on the day. And I was glad to not cycle on the dusty and deforested leg without any shadow. I could see some rain forest on Mexico side but almost nothing left in Guatemala. Flores, located in Guatemala, without any poverty appearance, is well-known for the Mayan cities, and also my destination in the coming week.
搭船到對岸的瓜地馬拉.jpg
搭船到對岸的瓜地馬拉
瓜地馬拉邊境Bethel.jpg
瓜地馬拉邊境Bethel
瓜地馬拉渡船頭的旅遊資訊站與接駁車.jpg
瓜地馬拉渡船頭的旅遊資訊站與接駁車
好心協助我安排交通運輸的旅館工作人員.jpg
好心協助我安排交通運輸的旅館工作人員
路景,墨西哥的雨林還有樹,瓜地馬拉的雨林已成歷史.jpg
路景,墨西哥的雨林還有樹,瓜地馬拉的雨林已成歷史
旅館房間 Nueva Allianza,這附近的村落都走純樸風,有吊扇,共用浴廁.jpg
旅館房間 Nueva Allianza,這附近的村落都走純樸風,有吊扇,共用浴廁
墨西哥邊境小鎮Frontera corazon,也是往無道路抵達的Yuxchilan遺址渡船頭.jpg
墨西哥邊境小鎮Frontera corazon,也是往無道路抵達的Yuxchilan遺址渡船頭
走得比雞快的豬媽媽和豬孩子.jpg
走得比雞快的豬媽媽和豬孩子

z008282 2018-4-22 21:42 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

11/20 Palenque--hotel camino verde
11/21 --Frontera corazon
11/22-- 瓜地馬拉花城(Flores),搭車

我喜歡跨越少旅客的關口,除了挑戰性,越多旅客的關口,往往越折騰的通關手續。續談之前,我先談一個我不太一樣的觀念:原則上,我不會和海關人員爭論『繳費換入境章』這件事。先進國家有一定規矩,不會有爭議,比較有問題的是發展中國家,常有被認為索賄現象。我不爭論的原因有幾個:首先,海關人員有絕對權力讓旅客入境與否,把他們惹毛不是開玩笑的。此外,發展中國家在冷門關口的海關人員常有薪資過低的問題,給他一些小費『支持』他好好工作,不要隨便找旅客麻煩,我不覺得有太多不妥。另外,在語言隔閡下,被旅客認為的索賄說不定不是索賄。

先介紹幾個文章將會不斷出現的地點名稱,或是你可以直接跳到倒數第五段:
Palenque:以列為世界文化遺產的馬雅古城著名的觀光城市。
Bonampak:另一個以壁畫著名的馬雅古城,遺址岔路口位於Palenque南方115公里處。
Frontera corazon:岔路口與Bonampak岔路口位於同條公路上,為前往瓜地馬拉與另一個馬雅古城Yuchitan的搭船渡口。Yuchitan只能搭船前往,無公路到達。

Bonampak,Yuchitan兩個馬雅古城,和從Frontera corazon搭船到對岸的瓜地馬拉都在我的計畫中。至於要怎麼安排,費了一番腦筋。

Yuchitan只能搭船前往,Bonampak需要搭乘接駁車,雖然在我預定線路上,可是我發現由Palenque找旅行團前往比較便宜,來回含門票早午餐運輸等僅800pesos,約47美金,不含導遊,所有Palenque的旅行社行程都不含導遊。

翌日,Palenque到瓜地馬拉的兩個關口,為了安全考量,我決定走交通較不便的Frontera corazon,而不是整路舖柏油的El Ceibo。中間在小旅館過夜後,11/21續往關口前進。也就是說,Frontera Corazon我到訪兩次,一次是跟團去Yuchitan,一次是自己通關。

我在路上預想到瓜地馬拉的狀況。面對80公里的爛路,我不確定我有哪些選項,所以我列出一個絕對不能做的事:搭乘不熟的私人計程車。搭船到對岸的瓜地馬拉後,移民檢查處還有12公里,我怎麼知道我下車通關時,駕駛會不會趁亂把我的行李載走。

但是事情出奇順利。到了Frontera corazon,這個以生態旅遊為主軸之一的小鎮(雖然餐廳桌巾潔淨的詭異),入住hotel Nueva Allianza,接下來我實在不敢相信自己的耳朵。

150pesos(9美金)住宿(共用浴廁),300pesos搭船加包車載到Flores。

那麼便宜,而且完全不用傷腦筋,旅館人員十分好心,翌日早上他先帶我到墨西哥移民局蓋出境章,幫我打電話給不知道過哪國時間的官員來開門上工,接下來他帶我到渡船頭。更神奇的是,對岸有個旅遊資訊站,裡面有會說英語的服務員,真是中頭獎。而中頭獎的不只我,還有旅遊資訊站旁邊的換錢小販,因為我拿出快3000pesos跟他換錢,而他提供的匯率也比我兩天前查到的好。搭包車的除了我還有一對德國情侶,男的在爛路上吐得亂七八糟,不知道回去會不會收到『dear John』。看來今天跨界的應該就我們三人。我很高興我沒有騎爛路,除了路真的糟,原來的雨林(在墨西哥還看得到)幾乎砍伐殆盡,黃沙中,半點涼蔭也沒有。Flores雖然位於瓜地馬拉,但是沒有太多貧窮的樣貌,這裡以馬雅遺址聞名,也是我未來一週的重頭戲。

1/20 Palenque--hotel camino verde
11/21 --Frontera corazon
11/22 --Flores, Guatemala by transportation

I like to cross the border less traveled. It's challenging sometimes, but usually with fewer hassles. Unlike some travelers, I don't argue with the customs officers with the “fees of cleaning custom” or fees regarded as a bride for many reasons, which is quite common in developing countries. First, they have absolutely right to decide to let me in or not, and it's not fun to piss them off. Second, I never understand if it's really a bride under the communication barriers. And the immigration officers in the developing countries are usually less paid. For me, it doesn't matter to “tip” them for doing a better job and not to give the traveler a difficult time. I don't prefer to judge someone before I really understand him.

I would like to introduce some locations in this leg. Or you could skip these to the last 5 paragraphs.

Palenque: A charming small town famous for its Mayan city listed in UNESCO.

Bonampak: A Mayan ruins with amazing murals.

Yuxchitan: Another attractive Mayan ruins only accessible by boat from Frontera Corazon.

Frontera Corazon: The Mexico border village with boat launch to Yuxchitan and Guatemala.

The four places above are around the same route. But I found it was cheaper to join a group from Palenque to both ruins, Bonampak and Yuxchitan. My original plan was to to cycle to Frontera corazon and visit the two sites on my way to the border village. So I actually travelled the route twice, once in a van and the other on the paddle. The price of the tour was 800 pesos(47USD), including transportation(vehicle and boat), the entrance fees, and two meals. No one in Palenque provided a tour package with a guide.

After the day of the tour, I decided to take the border of Frontera corazon instead of El Ceibo. The first one, which travelers have to take a boat to cross the border line, received fewer visitors and thought to be safer. But there was 80 km of rugged dirt road on Guatemalan side. Instead of guessing what the situation I will encounter once I cross, I listed one thing that I should never try. That is, DO NOT TAKE A ** TAXI OR TO HITCHHIKE WHICH I WAS NOT FAMILIAR WITH. The immigration office was located 12 km from the boat launch and I didn't know if the drive will take my baggage away when I am “checking-in”.

But things went much smoother than I expected. I arrived in Frontera Corazon, a border town famous for its otherwise inaccessible Mayan city Yuxchitan and eco tour, although I found the table cloth restaurant in the hotel were too spotless. I asked the hotel staff about the information.

“150 pesos(9 USD) for a single room(public toilet) and 300 pesos for the boat/** transportation to Flores, Guatemala.”

Bingo. So cheap and so easy. The staff was very helpful. On the next morning, he took me to the Mexico immigration office, gave the officer a wake-up call when we found the office was closed at the time it should be open. Then he took me to the boat launch. After crossing the boundary river, the boater took me to the bus stand 100 meters away, where I found a helpful tourist information and also an English-speaking staff. I was so lucky as if I hit the jackpot when I realized everything went so well. And the money changer also hit the jackpot because I exchanged almost 3000 pesos with him.( He provided very good rate.). There were another German couple to join the van travel to Flores, and it seemed that we were the only three people to cross this remote border on the day. And I was glad to not cycle on the dusty and deforested leg without any shadow. I could see some rain forest on Mexico side but almost nothing left in Guatemala. Flores, located in Guatemala, without any poverty appearance, is well-known for the Mayan cities, and also my destination in the coming week.
搭船到對岸的瓜地馬拉.jpg
搭船到對岸的瓜地馬拉
瓜地馬拉邊境Bethel.jpg
瓜地馬拉邊境Bethel
瓜地馬拉渡船頭的旅遊資訊站與接駁車.jpg
瓜地馬拉渡船頭的旅遊資訊站與接駁車
好心協助我安排交通運輸的旅館工作人員.jpg
好心協助我安排交通運輸的旅館工作人員
路景,墨西哥的雨林還有樹,瓜地馬拉的雨林已成歷史.jpg
路景,墨西哥的雨林還有樹,瓜地馬拉的雨林已成歷史
旅館房間 Nueva Allianza,這附近的村落都走純樸風,有吊扇,共用浴廁.jpg
旅館房間 Nueva Allianza,這附近的村落都走純樸風,有吊扇,共用浴廁
墨西哥邊境小鎮Frontera corazon,也是往無道路抵達的Yuxchilan遺址渡船頭.jpg
墨西哥邊境小鎮Frontera corazon,也是往無道路抵達的Yuxchilan遺址渡船頭
走得比雞快的豬媽媽和豬孩子.jpg
走得比雞快的豬媽媽和豬孩子

z008282 2018-4-23 18:05 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
11/24 In Flores

Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

在台灣健行,得應付一群專制的警察。在瓜地馬拉,則是一群以真亂假的騙子。

從今年中開始,El Mirador為了避免古蹟被不當破壞,不再允許無嚮導自組前往(充分理由的撈錢之術,台灣也學學吧),鑑於瓜地馬拉未來斷交後台灣旅客有門進不去的風險,套裝行程再貴也得吞下去。

Grand Jaguar,像所有街上的旅行社,有賣真的交通票,真的Tikal套票(位於Flores城郊必訪的馬雅遺址),因為我多次看到背包客在門口等車。但是假的El Mirador旅程。除非仔細瀏覽網路評論,否則很難察覺不對勁。他的其中一名員工曾到台灣交換學生(這應該是真的),我如往常比較價格服務後,交錢拿票券。

我很遺憾他來台灣不好好學中文,學台灣舉世聞名的詐騙大法,真假虛實完美融合才是最高境界。行程當日早上,他跟我說其他團員亂吃亂拉送醫院,必須延後但是翌日保證出發,即使只剩我一人,他甚至幫我出旅館錢。類似方法我之前在坦尚尼亞遇到,聽起來合理但是明顯破綻百出。我一人去價格怎麼可能和一群人去一樣。

我先虛假的答應,在網路確定評論後,知道他們會不斷的拖,要不然真的帶你出發(搭上車就不能退費了),接下來可能是無牌嚮導等我,或是把你放
生,或是6日的悽慘生活。之前提過,旅客需要合格嚮導才能前往,否則會遭遇罰款。

之後他們當然用各式理由不給我全額退款,算了。讓這件事更悲哀的是,之前我被警告的事情應驗了:周遭人們友善嗎?那是因為他們知道幫助你至少不會給自己帶來麻煩(換句話說,路上遇劫別指望他人停車相挺)。我前一天到處詢問時,沒有人警告我,旅館主人也是事後才跟我說,他們被抓很多次,但是畢竟是『合法』業者,抓了又放,放了之後開分店換名字。

我最後由INGAUT,訓練合格嚮導的機構確定可以信任的旅行社。這次我不再隨心所遇,仔細看過網路評論再前往。這間合格旅行社只是比較誠實,但我已經準備好面對真假難辨的話語,有其他人要去,用收據副本證明給我看,在我的收據上寫下所有你答應的服務。跟昨天去Tikal行程狀況類似,他們不在乎人,只在乎錢,前往Tikal超過1小時車程的15人座小巴塞了來自不同旅行社的20人-他們在走道放座椅,其中一位旅客看到這樣的安排勃然大怒,但也沒輒。而前往El Mirador居然得搭事故頻繁的chicken bus,而非私人廂型車。

馬雅祖先可能在哭泣,他們蓋神廟是拿來拜日月之神,不是詐騙大神的。

Hikers have to deal with a bunch of domineering local police, and have to deal with a huge pack of crooks to go to El Mirador, Guatemala.

El Mirador, a Mayan site with highest pyramid in the world, is hidden in the remote jungle in northern Guatemala. Since this summer, hikers have to hire a licenced guide to avoid any possible sabotage of the ancient buildings. And considering the highly possibility that Guatemala ruptures the diplomatic relation with Taiwan and closes the door to Taiwan visitors in the foreseeable future, I have to take this expensive tour now. As normal usual, I shopped around and chose one tour agency providing better price to El Mirador.

Grand Jaguar, the travel agency which sells real transportation tickets and Tikal tour package(a must-see Mayan ruins near Flores). I found backpackers in the agency for the vehicle several times. But they lies about the El Mirador tour.

I am very sorry that Taiwan doesn't only export electronics but scammers. The crook in the office went to Taiwan as an exchange student(should be true because he knows so much about Taiwan). I should ask what subjects he majored in his school. On the early morning of departure, he told me other hikers were sent to the hospital because of food poisoning. We had to postpone the schedule a day after and he would pay for my unexpected staying. No matter what, I will go on second day, alone or in a group. A similar story I heard in the tour of climbing Kilimanjaro, a most terrible tour I had attended.

Until then I realized that I was scammed. How could it possible that I pay the same price to go alone as in the group? I responded positively and then searched on line, understanding that the travel agency will postpone the schedule again and again until you can't stand it anymore, or take you for the hiking, without a licensed guide and sufficient supplies, or even left you in the remote village. And hikers can't ask for any refund after “departure”, once they are on the vehicle.

I can't get the total refund but at least I stopped things going worse. What made this event more terrible was NO ONE WARNED ME when I was asking around several agencies. Even the hotel manager told me only in afterwards that the crooks was caught several times but always released because they really have a qualified agency. And they changed the name of the agency several times. A traveller told me that people help you only after understanding that they don't get any trouble. Don't count on the passing vehicles when carjacking. Sad for this negative comment fulfilled.

I didn't give up my tour. Instead, I went to INGAUT, the agency trains a qualified guide, for more information. I learned the only trustworthy agency, although staffs there were still notorious for telling you the half truth and ripping off hikers. But I prepared for this. You said there are other hikers, SHOW ME THE COPY OF INVOICE. And WRITE DOWN EVERYTHING YOU PROMISE TO PROVIDE IN THE PACKAGE.

Most staffs in the agencies care only about money in town. I and another 19 visitors was packed in a 15-seats van(they put seats on the aisle) to Tikal yesterday, we were gathered by several different agencies, and a traveler was really furious with this arrangement. And I have to take the accident frequented chicken bus the the trail head of El Mirador. Not a ** van even after a huge amount of payment.

Maybe Mayans are crying for some of their descendants worshiping the god of scam. I will definitely go by myself if possible.
Bonampak壁畫之一,描述戰事與俘虜.jpg
Bonampak壁畫之一,描述戰事與俘虜
Bonampak遺址,以壁畫聞名.jpg
Bonampak遺址,以壁畫聞名
Bonampak主建築物, 建於公元8世紀末(公元791年11月11日正式使用),長16米,深4米,.jpg
Bonampak主建築物, 建於公元8世紀末(公元791年11月11日正式使用),長16米,深4米,高7米, 推測它也可能曾經有屋頂結構,它由三個獨立的房間組成,其中包含壁畫,敘述圍繞Bonupak統治者Yajaw Chaan Muwan的兒子Chooj和Aj Sak Teles的孫子所投入的事件
位於 Usumacinta河畔Yuxchitan的結構3(structure 3)。這遺址的傑作之一。可能在Bird J.jpg
位於 Usumacinta河畔Yuxchitan的結構3(structure 3)。這遺址的傑作之一。可能在Bird Jaguar IV在756年興建。這個結構可以俯瞰整個城市和河流,其中頂端的精美雕刻被稱為象形文字階梯(Hieroglyphic Stairway)。
位於 Usumacinta河畔Yuxchitan的南衛城(south Acropolis).jpg
位於 Usumacinta河畔Yuxchitan的南衛城(south Acropolis)
位於 Usumacinta河畔Yuxchitan的南衛城.jpg
位於 Usumacinta河畔Yuxchitan的南衛城

z008282 2018-4-24 23:18 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
10/25 10/26 In Flores
抱歉這篇沒照片,因為明天去6日健行,相機讀卡機被鎖在旅行社裡。

Sorry no pics in this article because I will go to 6 days hiking tomorrow and the memory card reader of the camera was locked in the travel agency office.

Please read the English version in the second half of this article

『北美黑熊在短暫的夏日有很多事情要做,繁衍後代,儲存能量過冬等。牠們也是非常聰明的動物,因此大部分時候牠們坐在灌木叢旁吃漿果,而非浪費時間體力捕捉行動敏捷的鹿科動物。』我參加的Jasper國家公園一日團的導遊曾經這麼說。

瓜地馬拉,至少在花城(Flores),散客旅行團與鄰國墨西哥有很大不同。首先,每間旅行社都可以找到英語流利的行員,再來,團費較高,但品質卻較差。更重要的是,每個行員在說實話的同時,也在說謊。除了之前的詐騙事件,例如我為了中午出發的Taxha遺址黃昏團拜訪許多旅行社,某間跟我說『你必須在前一天報名』但是另一間卻跟我說『哪有這個規矩。』

我和訓練合格嚮導的IGUNAT討論過這件事,順便『報案(詐騙案)』,他們跟我說因為這裡的旅行社不太誠實,所以越來越多旅客寧願多花錢向旅館定行程。『但是,雖然旅館為了口碑而且無法隨意易地易名而比較誠實,但是品質不會比較好,因為他們只賣行程而非經營者,最後旅客還是會搭上在走道放座椅的超載15人座中巴。』

但是,我想這也許是花城治安好的原因之一(雖然很多餐廳和旅館雇有荷彈警衛)。不像惡名昭彰的瓜地馬拉市,至少有一小部分的地區可以在天黑後散步。就像北美黑熊,能坐在辦公室撈錢何必在街頭火拼,花城的北邊叢林是馬雅文明的『都會區』,旅遊行程賣不完也騙不完。從好的方面想,這裡街頭乞討的人數少很多,人們都在努力賺錢,而且應該有很大的比例是用腦筋。

我並未參加旅行團而是自己前往瞭望台。這不困難但是偶爾需要居民向我提示路徑。它還是有友善美好的一面。但是,就像瓜地馬拉市甚至可能是瓜國全境,人們似乎對鄰近的犯罪無動於衷,這也是讓瓜地馬拉城惡名昭彰的原因之一。沒人提醒我街上的風險。

『你被騙了,秀秀。我們這裡有很好的行程……。』

“The North American black bear has a lot of works in the short summer. To reproduce and to store energy for the coming winter for example. It is smart enough to spend most of time to sit next to bushes and consumes berries, instead of hunting the agile deer family
animals”. I learned this from a guide in my Jasper national park tour in Canada.

Guatemala, at least in Flores, the day tour has huge difference between the tour in Mexico. First, tourist can find at least one bilingual staff in every agency. Second, tourists pay more but get poorer quality. Most of all, the staff tells me the truth at the same time tells me a lie. For example, other than the scamming, I asked around about the sunset tour to Taxha site, one agency told me I should sign in a day before, but another one told me there's no such thing.

I discussed this with IGUNAT and reported the scamming event, where the qualified guide gets the license and also the co-ordination unit of local travel business. They told me because of the scamming events happen continually, more and more travelers sign in the tour with the accommodation, more expensive but at least less likely to be scammed. But every agency and accommodation you can find on the street only sell the tour. So you will get on the 15-seats van bus with seats being stuffed on the aisle for their greediness and misconduct of overselling the tickets eventually, no matter whom you book the tour with.

But it seems to me that this is one of the reasons why Flores has better security, and there is at least a small area I could stroll around in the early night(still many restaurants and hotels hire armed guards though.) The jungle northern of Flores was a “metropolitan area” of Mayan civilization. There are so many places to explore, so many travel opportunities for locals to promote or “false pretence”. Like the black bear, if people can simply sit in the office to make money, they don't make money by risking to use violence on the street. To see the good side, there are less beggars on the street. And many people use the “intelligence” to earn a living.

I went to the lookout by myself instead of through an agency. It was not difficult but I still need few guidance along the way. Locals were friendly to assist me to tell the route. There is a good side here. But it seems that people are indifference or “ used to” the scams and street crime, which is one of the reason makes Guatemala city have bad reputation. I was never told the dishonest people were all around before I encountered couples of them.

“Very sorry for your loss. But we have a very nice day tour……”

z008282 2018-4-26 23:50 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

11/27-12/2 El mirador遺址健行

El mirador,興盛於西元前800到西元後150年間的馬雅城市,藏身在瓜地馬拉北部Peten省的熱帶雨林裡。這片雨林由墨西哥與瓜地馬拉共享,是馬雅文明的核心『都會區』,其中位於El mirador遺址的La Danta是目前發現的最大馬雅建築。馬雅人利用山丘的地利優勢,在這裡建立高達77公尺的祭壇。遺址或古城市廣泛分布於這片雨林區,每棟建築都有其歷史,El mirador為統治中心,周邊的諸如Tinkal與Nakbe主要供應工藝品。接下來的文章,將暫緩介紹個別建築,而以整個馬雅文明發展為基礎,簡述『在馬雅遺址內有哪些共通的建築結構與功用』。之後再討論El mirador的6日健行。包含E plaza,球場(juguar de potela),蓄水結構等。

馬雅文明屬於新石器文明,未被發現有冶金技術,使用落後的火耕技術,但是有高超的天文學知識,也引起許多『外星人猜想』。但是根據奧卡姆剃刀理論,最簡單的解釋往往也是最合理的解釋。馬雅社會階級逕渭分明,貴族階級不必農耕,而勞力密集的建築業也會產生一群無法耕田的民眾,加上落後的農耕技術,要鞏固領導階層的方法除了宗教,還有對天文自然現象的準確預測,如領導階層說:一週內會降下今年第一場雨。結果雨真的下了,欠缺教育的民眾自然把領導階層當神。

因此,天文觀測建築是除了宏偉祭壇等宗教建築外,可以注意的重要建築。最常見的建築樣貌為E plaza,四棟建築物根據方位排列成E的形狀,主建築為E的左邊橫線,用於觀測其他3個建築的陰影位置與長度來判斷節氣。

球場則是所有馬雅遺址都會發現的共通建築。場上會有兩面牆代表兩個隊伍,牆上有一個石圈,每一隊必須使用膝蓋和手肘傳球,並設法將球投入石圈中,因為球很重,所以負責得分的那個人可以拿輔助的棒子。這個球賽是宗教儀式的一種,至於是勝方還是敗方犧牲性命作為活祭仍未有定論,目前考古學界比較傾向勝方獻祭,因為獻祭者必須有足夠地位(參與球賽的多有一定社會階級)與能力,否則會褻瀆神明。馬雅是受到阿茲提客文化影響才有活人獻祭,取出心臟後火燒給神明Chacmool。

接下來是蓄水結構,雖然雨林區全年有雨,但12-2月仍為雨量較少的乾季。馬雅建築中除了數個蓄水池,建築中也有許多溝渠結構以集中雨水。此外,馬雅城邦有護城牆或護城河保護,一般民眾不可隨意進入,因此在城邦外往往有『平民集團的』,供無法進入城邦的一般民眾使用,如La Danta。

馬雅建築結構在歷史洪流中遭遇許多破壞,破壞者包含馬雅人本身:他們取用舊建築的石塊作為新建築的材料。越晚近的建築石塊越小以利運輸。這也產生另一個問題:他們怎麼運輸巨大的石塊。當時沒有驢馬等大型哺乳動物,也沒有證據顯示馬雅人懂得使用輪具。

最後,許多建築會產生像是 Quetzal (鳳尾綠咬鵑) 的鳥叫聲的回音。Quetzal 是馬雅文化的聖鳥,同時也是瓜地馬拉的國鳥和貨幣的名稱。

11/27-12/2 El mirador ruins hiking

El mirador, a Mayan city prosperous in 800 BC to 150 AD, is hidden in the dense jungle of northern Guatemala. This jungle, extending from eastern Mexico to northern Guatemala, was once a metropolitan area of Mayan civilization, in which El mirador ancient city located with largest building of Mayan ruins being excavated, la Danta temple, measured in 77 meters in height. Every building has its history and story in this area, and El mirador served as the political and religious center. The satellite cities, Tinkal and Nakbe for example, provided handcrafts and ceramics to the royalty. The next paragraphs will not go through the stories of every building. Instead, I will try to briefly introduce the common structure in Mayan cities and its function, including E plaza, ball game court, and reservoir. And I will describe the 6 days hiking in the coming article.

Maya civilization belongs to the Neolithic civilization. No metallurgical technique found, and backward slash-and-burn farming were used. However, they had superb knowledge of astronomy and arises some alien conjectures. However, according to Occam's razor theory, the simplest explanation is often the most reasonable one. The Maya social class was very clear-cut, the aristocracy didn't have to do the farming, and the labor-intensive construction industry also produced a group of people who can not participate the cultivation. Coupled with backward farming techniques, ways to consolidate the leadership included, in addition to religion, the accurate prediction of the climate and astrology phenomenon, such as the leadership said: the first rainfall of this year will come to the land in a week. The civilians of lacking education would believe and worship the leadership if the rain really came in time by presage.

Therefore, the astronomical observation building is an important building that can be noticed except for the magnificent altars and other religious buildings. The most common buildings appeared are E plaza. Four buildings are arranged in the shape of E according to the orientation. The main building is the left horizontal line of E, which is used to observe the shadow position and length of the other three buildings to determine the exact date in the year.

The ball game court is another common building that can be found in every Mayan ruins. The two teams started the game from two walls on the opposite side, and there was a stone circle on each wall, each team must pass the ball with their knees and elbows, and try to put the ball into the stone circle. Because the ball was heavy, so the man in charge was allowed to take a helping stick. The ball game was religious, and the team of winning or losing to serve as a living sacrifice is still inconclusive. The archeologist is more inclined to the victory scarification, because sacrificers must have sufficient position ( the game was usually played by noval class) and ability, otherwise it was blasphemous. Mayan accepted living sacrifice by the influence of Aztec culture, and the sacrificer was killed and took out his beating heart before burning the heart to the god Chacmool.

Another distinguished construction is the water storage structure. Although the rainforest is namely rainy all year round, the dry season in December and February could receive considerably fewer rainfall and have impact on farming. In addition to several reservoirs in the Mayan cities, there were many ditch structures to concentrate the rainfall. Also, the city of Maya was protected by moats and limited accessibility to the general public. Therefore, there are often "altar and religious buildings for common public" outside the city limits, such as La Danta, the largest temple of Mayan ruins.

The Mayan architecture suffered a great damage, and one of the saboteurs is Maya themselves: they took the stones of the old building as the material for the new one. The size of the stones for construction was getting smaller after generations of advancement in refining the limestones. This raised another question: how they transport huge stones. There were no large mammals such as donkeys and horses at the time, and there was no evidence that the Mayans knew how to use the wheels.

Finally, many buildings produce echoes of bird sounds like Quetzal. Quetzal is the sacred bird in the Mayan culture and is also the national bird and a totem can be found on the currency of Guatemala.
1馬雅建築的溝渠.jpg
馬雅建築的溝渠
El mirador Tiger神廟日落.jpg
El mirador Tiger神廟日落
El mirador的護城牆.jpg
El mirador的護城牆
La danta近照.jpg
La danta近照
Nakbe的牲畜餵食槽.jpg
Nakbe的牲畜餵食槽
Nakbe的司令台.jpg
Nakbe的司令台
Tiger神廟,挖掘工作還在進行.jpg
Tiger神廟,挖掘工作還在進行
壁畫.jpg
壁畫
不想走,搭直升機也行,旁邊的其他遊客指直升機說:看,中國人@@.jpg
不想走,搭直升機也行,旁邊的其他遊客指直升機說:看,中國人@@
還沒化妝的雨神.jpg
還沒化妝的雨神
許多建築物由數代馬雅人陸續興建,越晚近(越外層)的石塊越小以利運輸.jpg
許多建築物由數代馬雅人陸續興建,越晚近(越外層)的石塊越小以利運輸
皇室寢居.jpg
皇室寢居
活人祭壇,犧牲者躺在上面,取出心臟後祭神.jpg
活人祭壇,犧牲者躺在上面,取出心臟後祭神
另一個集水構造,內凹的設計避免水分被石塊吸收甚至影響結構強度.jpg
另一個集水構造,內凹的設計避免水分被石塊吸收甚至影響結構強度
馬雅的地下保冷櫃.jpg
馬雅的地下保冷櫃
馬雅建築的溝渠.jpg
馬雅建築的溝渠
馬雅遺址最大球場,寬47公尺.jpg
馬雅遺址最大球場,寬47公尺
遙望目前已知的最大馬雅建築,la Danta.jpg
遙望目前已知的最大馬雅建築,la Danta
用於天文觀測的E plaza的主建築(觀測台).jpg
用於天文觀測的E plaza的主建築(觀測台)
雨神.jpg
雨神

z008282 2018-4-27 22:54 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
很抱歉,臨時有事,暫停至五月10日左右
z008282 2018-5-17 14:25 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
El mirador遺址健行

The hiking to El Mirador site. Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

Day 1: 搭乘公車到Carmelita,接下來經過la Florida遺址(第五日住宿處)走到 Tintal遺址 (17公里, 5小時)
Day 2: Tintal到El Mirador遺址(28公里,7小時);在 El Tigre金字塔看日落
Day 3: El Mirador遺址,參觀已知馬雅最大體積神廟la Danta
Day 4: El Mirador to Nakbe (14公里, 4小時)
Day 5: Nakbe to La Florida (37公里, 11小時)
Day 6: La Florida to Carmelita (11公里, 4小時)

由行程可以發現每日行走距離很遠,雖然步道平坦。其中第2-4日走在馬雅的causeway(堤道)上,也就是當時的『高速公路』,整地過路況良好,唯一的問題是雨季剛過,多處泥濘需繞道。但是第5日,37公里的路程多在雨林裡穿梭,需要紮實的走上一天。

這趟行程最大賣點是El mirador遺址,馬雅時期的政治宗教中心,與馬雅最大體積神廟la Danta。但是整體而言,El mirador與其衛星城市遺址仍有超過80%被樹木與泥土覆蓋,外觀像小土丘,只能在腦中想像當時的盛況。

目前為了旅客安全與保護古蹟,健行行程必須經由旅行社安排,而目前由步道口的Carmelita村落壟斷El mirador的旅遊,該村落在旅遊大鎮Flores有辦公室,也是旅行的起點。

和該辦公室談論價格是痛苦的過程,辦公室人員之一Oscar在tripadvisor惡名昭彰,他會想盡辦法剝你的皮。最後我甚至把另外付費的英語導遊叫到一旁確定他的薪水(英語導遊後來給我看他的薪資單證明他所言不假),而不是由Oscar隨意喊價。旅費2000Q,英語導遊600Q(我和另一位旅客分,英語導遊每日薪水200Q,在瓜地馬拉是非常優渥的收入),共2600Q,而1美金約8Q,貴吧。而事實上同行的共有三人,兩人付費英語導遊三人用,原因是第三人堅持絕對不會再付出額外費用。想必他對辦公室的惡行十分厭惡,但是很遺憾的這是壟斷事業。

除了往返交通是搭乘因為車輛老舊過度載重且事故頻繁的chicken bus而非私人廂型車,和另我理智線快斷掉的與Oscar相談,整體旅行還算品質不錯。我們很幸運的有完整的隨行人員,包含當地嚮導,英語嚮導,廚師,和跟我們到第四日的牽驢者(之後驢子由當地嚮導牽)。多數其他遊客參與的旅遊隨行人員一人多用,例如牽驢者也從事廚師工作等。每個營地都有海綿墊子,旅行社為旅客準備床單帳棚和毯子。營地夜晚約20度,十分宜人,除了蚊子多了些。

驢子可負重約80公斤,行李重量有剩可載人,但是泥濘路段原則上人需自己走,以免驢子卡在泥濘中。

營地也有許多野生動物,除了長鼻浣熊,還有色彩鮮豔的野生火雞。其中一位歐洲旅客和英語導遊吸大x煙吸得很高興,另一位歐洲遊客以神風特供隊的戰術玩西洋棋(不管自己死活把所有擋路的棋子都幹掉),這是有趣難得的旅行,旅行開始於Flores這個詐騙窩,但是出淤泥而不染。

Day 1: Went to Carmelita by bus, and then onward to Tintal site (17 km, 5 hours) by foot, through la Florida site where we overnighted on day 5
Day 2: Tintal to El Mirador (28km, 7hours); Watching sunset from El Tigre Pyramid
Day 3: El Mirador site and la Danta, the known largest temple of Mayan ruins
Day 4: El Mirador to Nakbe site (14 km, 4hours)
Day 5: Nakbe to La Florida (37km, 11hours)
Day 6: La Florida to Carmelita (11 km, 3 hours), and then bus to Santa Elena at 1 pm

We had long walking distance in most of days in the trip, although the trail was mostly flat. The 2-4th day was on the causeway of Maya, the "expressway" of the time and still had excellent conditions although the rainy season had just passed and we had to detour many muddy sections. However, 37 km in 5th day of strenuous walking was more like a marching in the dense jungle, and needed to make all the efforts for arriving before sunset.

The most attraction of this trip is El mirador ruins, a Mayan religious and political center, and largest known Mayan temple la Danta in volume-wise. However, more than 80% of El mirador and its satellite city ruins are still covered with bushes and soil and make them look like small hills. We can only draw a picture of prosperous city in our minds.

For travelers' safety and protection of historic monuments, travel to El mirador must be arranged by travel agencies. And this travel is currently monopolized by Carmelita village at the trailhead, which has a office in the tourist town of Flores and is also my starting place for travel.

Negotiating with the staff in the office about the tour price was a painful progress. One of the staff, Oscar, is notorious on tripadvisor. He always finds ways to rip your off. I even had to ask the English guide for his real daily wage instead of bargaining with Oscar for the extra service for an English guide(the English guide, Toto, showed me his paycheck to approve his sayings.). Tour fees were 2000Q, hiring a speaking guide costed me 600Q (I and another hiker split the spending, which the daily wage for the English guide was 200Q, quite good in Guatemala), total of 2600Q( 1 US dollar about 8Q), expensive! In fact, there were total 3 hikers to attend this tour, but only I and another tourist paid English speaking guide, because the third person insisted to not pay any extra fee. Presumably he was disgusted with the evil in the office, but unfortunately El mirador tour is an monopoly business.

In addition to the round-trip transportation on the tattered, overloaded, and accident frequented vehicle(chicken bus) instead of a ** van, and killing negotiation with Oscar, the trip was fairly in good quality. We were fortunate to have a whole package of accompany staffs, including an English speaking guide, a local guide, a chef and the mule whisperer who returned on fourth day (after which the mule was led by a local guide). Most of the other tourists had the accompany staffs with multiply tasks such as the mule whispered also did the chef work. Each campsite has a sponge cushion, and travel agency prepared tents, beddings and blankets for travelers. Temp at night in the campsite was in pleasant 20s degrees, except for disturbing mosquitoes.

The mule can carry about 80 kilos, and it can carry people if the weight of the luggage is below this number. But the muddy sections requires to walk through by food in case of the mule being stuck in the mud.

There were also many wild animals in the campsite, hog-nosed coon(Nasuella olivacea) and colorful wild turkey were quite common there. One of the European travelers and the English guide enjoyed doing weeds and another tourist played the chess in “kamikaze style(he killed all the enemy pawns regardless his own pieces). It was an admirable journey, although fraudsters were everywhere in Flores, the start point of this tour.
El Mirador Tigre神廟日落,中間的英語嚮導在卷大x(marijxxxx)煙.jpg
El Mirador Tigre神廟日落,中間的英語嚮導在卷大x(marijxxxx)煙
Tintal遺址日落.jpg
Tintal遺址日落
Tintal營地.jpg
Tintal營地
Tintal營地1.jpg
Tintal營地
Tintal營地2.jpg
Tintal營地
廚子,在煎玉米餅.jpg
廚子,在煎玉米餅
泥濘路段.jpg
泥濘路段
牽驢者.jpg
牽驢者
為驢子開路.jpg
為驢子開路
野生火雞.jpg
野生火雞

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