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z008282 2018-4-9 10:52 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
11/4 Chaputepec--Juchitan(de Zaragoza) 58 km

Please read the English version in the second half of this article

墨西哥南部的地形為低陷區,因此有著名的落山風,這留待之後介紹。這裡是中美洲地狹的北端,而距離太平洋僅約30公里直線距離的Juchitan,是今年9月Chiapas地震受創最嚴重的地區之一。

在事前我不斷考慮是否應該駐留此地,畢竟,我不想在大家忙亂之際,站在瓦礫堆上,告訴大家:看,我來過這裡。我在Chaputepec打聽一番,雖然一大半有聽沒懂,但是似乎多數居民的生活已經逐漸回覆正常。

我必須待在Juchitan的原因主要為氣候因素,否則一天不會只騎58公里。繞過Juchitan的主要公路看來所有建築物一片正常,但是步入市區,本來以為的局部災情,並非如此。

這是Oaxaca州的重要城市,Google地圖顯示城鎮中心有超過一打的旅館。我在滿街的瓦礫堆中尋找存活的旅店,發現別說建築物本身,多數的旅店連招牌都不見蹤影。我找到一間外觀看似平常的旅館,但是並未營業。最後我回到主要公路,找到一間也許是這個城市僅存的住宿,也是我看過最繁忙的旅館,四星級,星星數目在墨西哥似乎沒有太多意義,也不一定和價格呈正比。

市區幾乎沒有完整的磚瓦建築物,而歷史悠久的行政中心雖然茍延殘喘,但是外觀已受嚴重破壞。但是在城市中心,週六市集仍生氣蓬勃,我打聽一下,了解許多店面損壞的商家選擇在這裡搭起臨時棚架繼續生意。街上的三輪摩托計程車(我目前只在Oaxaca州看到這些車輛)取代其他地區的廂型計程車,努力的搶客與東鑽西竄,的確,似乎居民的生活已經逐漸回覆正常。

在行政中心旁的完全被摧毀的建築物的瓦礫堆上,本來有象徵墨西哥團結一心的國旗飄揚,但是現在已被移除。即使如此,墨西哥人的團結在很多地方顯現,不只是暫時性的象徵物。

The southeastern lowland of Mexico, where isthmus of Tehuantepec locates, is notorious for the chinooks(the fierce wind comes down from the mountains) which is the main reason for me to cycle only 58 km on the day. Aside from that, city of Juchitan, about 30 km from the Pacific, is one of the most damaged area in Chiapas earthquake in 7, September this year.

I don't want to stand on the rubble and tell everyone on the fb that”look, I am here” when everyone is still busy at reconstruction. So I asked around in Chaputepec, and I got the positive answer(although I can only understand a little of the Spanish conversation) that most resident in the city is back on track. And the chinooks made my stop at the city was a must.

The main building on the highway outskirting this city looked fine. But stepped into the center, where I tried to find out a survival hotel. (Juchitan is an important city of Oaxaca and Google maps indicate there are at least a dozen of hotels in the center.) I soon realized that not mention to the building of the hotels,even the signs didn't exist. I asked a hotel in a good shape in the appearance if the owner was still running the business. He wasn't.

From the center that dominated by debris, I went back to the highway and found a four stars hotel which is open. This is the busiest hotels I have ever seen. And it seems that the stars of a hotel in Mexico don't necessary mean something or proportion to its price.

But the weekend market was still aminated. And I realized that lots of people whose store were damaged ran their small business here under the temporary scaffold. The 3-wheeled motorbikes, which I only found in Oaxaca state on my journey of Mexico, substitute the van bus, drive rampantly on the street. It appeared to me that the most lives of the city is at least try the best to be back to normal.

The historic municipal palace suffered notable destroyed. The debris aside was placed a national flag on top, which fully expressed the patriotism of Mexican but had been removed. But I found many situations where locals to express their unity, not only the temporary symbol.
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市中心市集,左側是受損嚴重的歷史建築行政中心.jpg
市中心市集,左側是受損嚴重的歷史建築行政中心

z008282 2018-4-10 23:52 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

11/5 在Juchitan

最理想的工作,也許是像現在這樣,早上起來再決定今天是否是慵懶的一天。

一早起來,我到櫃檯晃了一下,發現他們有週日早餐吃到飽,重點是似乎整個城市的居民都蜂擁至此。既然如此,何不一試。

難怪這個早餐吃到飽會受到居民的喜愛。除了各種玉米餅,還有諸如我之前吃過的menudo(墨西哥牛肚湯)等料理,可是這些料理對我太辣,我只能乖乖像隔壁桌的小朋友吃喜瑞爾和配炒蛋。

整個餐廳塞滿了人,落單的顧客得共享餐桌。與我同桌的是學校教師,他英語不行,主動帶我到城裡兜風,看看地震後的情況,這是我還在考慮今天的行程(旅館一晚450peso有些貴,但是其他城市的旅館受地震影響幾乎未開放)。但是他幾乎哀求的語氣,甚至拿出教職員證證明身分。那就多待一日吧。

他指著空地說:『這裡本來是廚房,這裡是臥室…。』家受到嚴重損壞後,目前僅能以帳棚暫居,內部十分悶熱,整個城市我只看到中國和加拿大的帳棚,也有舊衣路邊攤任君挑選。應觀眾要求,這是我第一次挑戰中西文翻譯(翻譯帳棚上的文字),看來觀眾有聽有懂。而讓我更好奇的不只斷垣殘壁,而是居民的生活情形。週日早上是被塞爆的餐廳,晚上則是被塞爆的電影院和隔壁的咖啡廳。除了代表貧富差距,這還代表什麼呢。

『大家週日還是需要放假的』。非常正當的理由,簡單明瞭我聽得懂的西文。除此之外,旅館有警衛,雖然他們隨著陰影移動而不是嚴肅的站在門口,也有開門工,某方面來說,一間旅館養活那麼多人,加上我用不到的游泳池,不虧比稍高的房費。

之後的落山風路段後,路程會再度翻上2000公尺的高原,然後是一些冷門的馬雅遺址。

11/5 In Juchitan

It was a perfect day. I woke up and then deciding the schedule for the day.

I went to the counter and found the attached restaurant was full of people. I soon realized that they have breakfast buffet in every Sunday and it is very popular with residents. Since that, I chose to give it a try.

No wonder the breakfast buffet is highly appropriated by locals. There are all kinds of Mexico cuisine, even menudo, Mexican beef tripe soup. But the cuisine were too spicy for me and I can only have cereal and deep fried eggs.

The restaurant was stuffed with people and alone customers had to share the table. A school teacher sat down on my table and volunteer to give me a motorbike ride in the city. The main reason that I can't make my mind to take the city tour was the higher hotel price, 450 pesos for a night. But he was almost begging and even showed me his id. I was determined to stay there for another day.

He pointed the ground, told me: here was the kitchen, and here was the bedroom…. His house was severely damaged in the earthquake and had to stayed in casita temporary, the small house or the tent. I found tents provided by China and Canada in the city. Also, he showed me the stand of charitable clothes. And it was my first try to translate Chinese(the worlds on the tent) into Spanish, it seemed that he can understand. I was curious about another scenery in the city about the people's life aftermath. That's, I saw the restaurant crowded with people in the morning, and I saw a crowded cinema and it's attached cafe at night in the weekend.

“People still need entertainment.”. He gave me a simple answer other than the wealthy inequality. And I was glad to stay in a hotel providing so many jobs: the counter staff, the janitor, the restaurant staff and chef, someone to open the door for customers, and even the guards. Although the guards usually stood in the shadows instead of standing seriously by the entrance.

Ahead of me is the chinook section and then a hilly terrain to another highland. Beyond them are Maya route less traveled. Well, it will be fun.
帶我城市旅遊的教師.jpg
帶我城市旅遊的教師
帶我城市旅遊的教師受損毀的住處,其他部分(如廚房等)已完全坍塌.jpg
帶我城市旅遊的教師受損毀的住處,其他部分(如廚房等)已完全坍塌
居民的臨時住處.jpg
居民的臨時住處
路邊舊衣攤.jpg
路邊舊衣攤
學校遺址.jpg
學校遺址
學校遺址1.jpg
學校遺址

z008282 2018-4-11 19:49 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
11/6 Juchitan--Tapanatepec

Please read the English version in the second half of this article

Ventoso,西語的風大,這個村落是重要的交通節點,主產風電。

簡單說明落山風的成因,北方的空氣被自然力量推上山坡,因為山不太高,爬山不會耗費太多能量;加上南北海岸距離狹窄,導致這些半推半就的氣團滾下南側山坡產生巨大的力量。

過了Ventoso是約20公里的風力發電機海,前半段道路不但沒有路肩,甚至路邊是海濱潟湖或沼澤,我不能在狹窄的道路騎車緊臨右側白線以給與車輛最大空間通過,而必須稍微騎在路中間。

沒有替代道路下,我想駕駛應該很習慣路上深陷暴風圈的小兔子,他們小心翼翼的通過比酒駕更酒駕的單車。Ventoso約15公里後是一個村落,再往前出現禁止單車的指示牌,十分幽默。這裡我慎重考慮棄單車就公車,畢竟從村落中心比較容易等得到能承載單車的公車。

這個村落離出發點約35公里,而距離最近有住宿的村落約20公里。再往前看看嗎?從樂觀的角度來看,這裡的風速『只』像加拿大的Alberta或美國的懷俄明州東南部,那裡廣闊的平原正好讓盛行西風發揮完全的力量,但是之後神奇的路肩出現了,至少我不必再當路障。

抵達最近有住宿的村落僅約12點,55公里6個小時,這樣的狀況還算恰當。午餐後我決定再往前30公里到下個村落,沒想到等著我的是因為抗議封街而綿延約3公里的貨車陣。

那個封街抗議村落和我認識的墨西哥不太一樣,我最好速速通過。還要再騎20公里的暴風路段,小兔子的金鼎電池快沒電了。

在11小時的乘風破浪後,我在距離出發點約105公里的村落找到一間有冷氣的平價旅館,約20美金。這也是我出發前擔心的:沿路的村莊不知道重建的如何。這間旅館明顯受到地震嚴重影響,有些房間還在整修,我的房間也有明顯新舊不一的地磚鋪設。但是所幸他們已開張大吉,白天公路大冒險後,晚上我到海鮮餐廳(這裡鄰近海岸)繼續大冒險。蝦(camaron)的ceviche不知是啥東東,請參閱照片。

Ventoso, windy in Spanish, is a village on an important crossroad, and is rich in wind power.

The north air of the Mexico isthmus is pushed to low hills and then rushing to the south lowland to become a notorious fierce wind. Ventoso is in the storm centre, and there is about 30 km of wind farm along the highway.

Beyond Ventoso, there is no more shoulder, and what made me in more dangerous situation was the swamp on my right. I can't stick to the white line but had to cycle near the middle of the car lane for not being blown to the swamp.

But I found the driver might adjust to the zigzag cyclist without any feasible substitution road. They carefully passed me without any intimidating. I arrived in a village after 15 km of exhausting paddling, and saw a interesting “no cycling” signpost. I considered seriously to jump on the bus, and it was easier to find a bus that was capable of carrying I bicycle in the village.

But to think about the bright side, the wind was ONLY as strong as I encountered in Alberta, Canada or Wyoming, USA. So I decided to struggle further. And soon after the village the shoulder showed up for me!

I arrived in another village with accommodation of 55 km from the start point at about 12 pm, which I planned to overnight at first. I t took me about 6 hours for the 55 km section, not very bad. I kept going after lunch for another village with accommodation, about 30 km further.

But I can't stay in that village because of a protest which wasn't seem to be friendly. The protest blocked the highway, leading to 3 km long of truck jam. I excreted myself for cycling 20 km further in the fierce cross winds. And luckily found a nice budget hotel in the next village,Tapanatepec.

I was worried about the villages along the way being severely damaged by Chiapas earthquake, and the hotel I stayed was under some sort of reconstruction due to the disaster: some rooms were still unavailable and the new built floor tiles in my room. But I was fortunate enough to have a cozy place for the night. After the great adventure of the day, I kept “adventuring” to order something I didn't understand in a seafood restaurant. Camaron de ceviche, a cold dish of medium well shrimps, was originated in Peru and was really delicious. And the cookers cleaned up the shrimps thoroughly to make sure that I can survive both the fierce wind and the under cooked shrimps.
ceviche de camaron,原產於秘魯的涼拌蝦美味料理,120peso,廚師把半生不熟蝦清的很.jpg
ceviche de camaron,原產於秘魯的涼拌蝦美味料理,120peso,廚師把半生不熟蝦清的很乾淨,吃來無後顧之憂
旅館,地磚有修補過的新痕跡.jpg
旅館,地磚有修補過的新痕跡
落山暴風區,風力發電機海與禁止單車牌子.jpg
落山暴風區,風力發電機海與禁止單車牌子
旅館中庭與太陽能發電版.jpg
旅館中庭與太陽能發電版
芒果田吧.jpg
芒果田吧
因抗爭封路造成的3公里車陣.jpg
因抗爭封路造成的3公里車陣

z008282 2018-4-12 16:50 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
11/8 Cintalapa--Tuxtla
11/9 In Tuxtla

Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

Tuxtla是特別的城市,身為Chiapas州首府與殖民城市,它完全沒有著名地標,連想參加距離10公里遠的Sumierto峽谷都得到下一個城市找旅行社湊團。它被列為墨西哥最安全與最有希望的城市,可是我待了兩天看不出來它有啥不同。爆走的私人廂型公車,百家爭鳴的喇叭聲(私人廂型公車常把喇叭改成有趣的聲音),當然還有富人專屬的時髦購物中心。還有使勁全力的街頭藝人,不會絕技搖呼拉圈也可以:有次我正打算打賞一位溜溜球技術高超的小男孩,結果發現他應該只是在玩而非擔負家庭生計,因為我沒看到投錢的罐子。我也看過兩個人一起擦一個人的皮鞋,一人擦右腳,一人左腳。

墨西哥是最低工資的發源國之一,但是也因為長期壓抑最低工資成長來控制通膨,因此目前最低工資僅每日80peso,約5美金。當然在大城市不可能以這樣的薪資雇用到員工,但是加上小費文化,使得非技術服務業人員的工資長期被壓低,僅技術人員平均值的?(非技術人員月薪約5000peso)。小費文化讓這些數據無法反應真實收入,但是許多人的薪資無法儲蓄,一旦意外發生,可能得流落街頭。

在Tuxtla每晚6點的打擊樂marimba表演吸引許多民眾,也是這個城市唯一有看頭的景點。聽完打擊樂,使用一般的警覺(如走大街道而非暗巷)與適當的喬裝(拖鞋,有汙漬的外套和手提塑膠袋),在車燈與昏暗夜色中走回旅館。雖然深表同情(尤其老弱婦孺),但是為數眾多的乞討民眾讓我麻木,他們似乎也不曾造成治安危害。也許下個國家的夜晚街頭會上演國定殺戮日,但是至少現在我能享受音樂,享受喇叭聲,晚上8、9點才姍姍回家。

旅行似乎和婚姻類似,大部分人會經歷兩到三個階段,愛情,親情,和友情。不幸的人會經歷四階段,愛情,親情,友情,和發現敵情或姦情。首先旅客可能會逐漸喜愛這個國家,知道暫時離不開它(親情),了解它(友情),不幸的話會發現可惡無法容忍之處。我很幸運到目前為止只經歷三階段,當然我也很清楚災難上身與否比較適用於一翻兩瞪眼的量子理論而非古典機率,再多的犯罪相關統計數據都沒用,因為只有走回住宿點才能確定自己的過去一天是否安然無恙。

As capital of Chiapas, Tuxtla has either landmarks or magnificent buildings. I even have to take the tour to Sumierto canyon(only about 10 km out of the city) in next city of my journey. Tuxtla is also considered as the city of safest and having greatest potentiality in Mexico. But I really can't find any difference from other cities. Impatient and aggressive drivers beeped their annoyance(the van bus often has funny honking sound). The richer only fancy stores. And the street performer made all the efforts to make a living. Once I planned to donate to a boy playing yo-yo amazingly. But I soon realized that he was merely having fun instead of supporting the family by playing yo-yo because of the absence of the can collecting coins. I also saw two men together polish one pair of shoes, one did the right and other one did the left.

Mexico is one of the first countries to implement the policy of minimum wage, but it also suppresses the inflation rate by the hold up minimum wage growth. The minimum wage in Mexico for a day is only 80 pesos, about 5 dollars. Of course no one would be hired by the salary in big cities, but the minimum wage lower than the common standard and the tip culture are reasons for the income of many non technical labors having just enough for the living and his family. They earn about 5000 pesos for a month, about one third of the income of technicians. Of course the tip culture makes the statistic be not wholly reliable but many of them can't have savings for emergencies.

Marimba in Tuxtla everyday 6 pm is the only sight of this city. After enjoying the music, I strolled back with common sense(walk on the busy street instead of unfamiliar alleys) and some “make-up”(sandos, a jacket with stains, and a plastic bag hanging on the wrist), which seems to be a real guardian angel on my way back to accommodation under the moonlight and the headlights. Although having deeply sympathy, especially for the children and the handicapped, but the numerous beggars make me numb. And they don't post any security concerns until now. Maybe I have to lock myself in the hotel after dark in the next country, but at least I could have a enjoyable journey in Mexico, day and night. Although I understand that the statistics about crimes doesn't necessary have meanings because I could be totally safe after stepping inside the accommodation.
Tuxtla的Marimba打擊樂表演,旁邊跳舞的是路人甲.jpg
Tuxtla的Marimba打擊樂表演,旁邊跳舞的是路人甲
Tuxtla的十字路口表演者,上一個路口是搖呼啦圈.jpg
Tuxtla的十字路口表演者,上一個路口是搖呼啦圈
路邊的搖床攤販,非常努力掛了好幾個作展示品.jpg
路邊的搖床攤販,非常努力掛了好幾個作展示品
亂丟垃圾處以罰款90倍最低日薪,但是明顯的僅供參考.jpg
亂丟垃圾處以罰款90倍最低日薪,但是明顯的僅供參考
徵人啟示:食品公司,招募對象包含家庭主婦,學生,退休或失業者,半天或一天工,日薪.jpg
徵人啟示:食品公司,招募對象包含家庭主婦,學生,退休或失業者,半天或一天工,日薪200-300pesos,約12-18美金

z008282 2018-4-13 23:16 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

11/10 Tuxtla--San Cristobal
11/11 參團Sumierto峽谷
11/12 參觀馬雅草藥博物館,no bolms博物館等

位於海拔約2100公尺的San Cristobal是標準的旅遊城市,也擁有最標準的『洋蔥式結構』,位於歷史中心十字狀的步行街充滿了小販,咖啡館,餐廳,與街頭藝人。可惜吉他神手對面的餐廳是我吃過最糟的食物。和紀念品店(這個城市以琥珀與玉石出門),平價旅館也在這裡,再來是中產階級住宅區與高階旅館,最外圈與山坡上的密集建築是貧民窟與天然垃圾掩埋場。這裡的山坡不是陽明山,在道路品質未改善前,我不覺得有錢人會跑到那裡住。

這是我第二次參加墨西哥的散客拼團。墨西哥高度競爭與發展的旅遊業讓這些行程價格可接受。上次在Oaxaca的團時間10-19點,塞了5個景點,價格僅350pesos,約21美金,不含所有門票。這次往Sumierto峽谷僅半天時間,費用220pesos,約14美金,含接駁與近3小時的乘船旅程。但是被推崇的Sumierto峽谷對我沒有太多驚奇。它的景致類似太魯閣的天祥上游路段:深邃但是有植被的峽谷,差別僅在於生態。除外,對我來說美國國家公園的美景也大勝於此。

一次旅行參觀3座金字塔讓人驚嘆,但是30座金字塔會產生嚴重的樂趣遞減。但是之後我還有機會重遊此地嗎?接下來的旅程我不採取直接路徑往瓜地馬拉,騎單車頂多3天時間,而是繞道『馬雅公路』。但是馬雅文明建於叢林而非高原上,所以我得進入濕熱的熱帶雨林。除了一些著名景點,我慎重考慮是否走位於瓜地馬拉的5-6日『馬雅古道』,參觀遙遠的El Mirador遺址。

11/10 Tuxtla--San Cristobal
11/11 visit Sumierto canyon
11/12 visit museums in the city

San Cristobal, locates in a valley of 2100 meters above sea level, is a standard tourists city, and has the “onion structure of the residential area”. The cross pedestrian streets in historic center are stuffed with restaurants, coffee shop, vendors, street artist, and souvenir store(this city is famous for the amber and the jade). This area is also the budget hotels located. I still enjoyed the live music performance there but the restaurant opposite of the best band in town was the most lousy food I ever had. Then residential area for the mid-class and some fancy hotel around the city center. Further on the slope is the dense houses of the people having lower incomes.

I took a tour to Sumierto canyon from the city. The highly competition and development of tourism industry in Mexico makes the price of tour affordable and has quality. The tour I anticipated in Oaxaca took me to 5 sights in only 9 hours, which was quite compact and even exhausting, but it only costed me 350 pesos(21 USD) for arranging this, all the entrance fees excluded. The Sumierto canyon tour, 220 pesos or about 14 USD, is half-day schedule, with almost 3 hours of boat trip in Sumierto canyon.

It was a worthy trip, but the canyon tour weren't amazing to me. I saw similar scenery in Taiwan, and more astonishing landscape in USA. Although the ecological system there were still interesting. I am overwhelming to the wonders on the way. 3 pyramids in one journey is quite enough, and to visit 30 pyramids in one journey is too much for me. But will I have a chance to revisit? Or it's better to visit all the sights in this trip. Beyond San Cristobal, Guatemala is just 3 days away by bicycle, but I will take the Mayan route in a more humid and hotter jungle instead of cycling straightforward. And I am thinking about a 5 or 6 days hiking tour in north Guatemala jungle to El Mirador site.
Sumierto峽谷.jpg
Sumierto峽谷
Sumierto峽谷的鱷魚.jpg
Sumierto峽谷的鱷魚
Sumierto峽谷的旅遊船隻.jpg
Sumierto峽谷的旅遊船隻
Sumierto峽谷的招牌瀑布景觀.jpg
Sumierto峽谷的招牌瀑布景觀
博物館的小販,身著傳統服飾,照相要20pesos,城市所有的小販都要求相同的價碼,除了.jpg
博物館的小販,身著傳統服飾,照相要20pesos,城市所有的小販都要求相同的價碼,除了翻譯姓名成日文的日本人
城市歷史中心,穿亮綠色服裝的單車騎士是巡邏員警.jpg
城市歷史中心,穿亮綠色服裝的單車騎士是巡邏員警
城市歷史中心,與住宅屋頂的磚瓦結構.jpg
城市歷史中心,與住宅屋頂的磚瓦結構
城市歷史中心.jpg
城市歷史中心
賣水車,像賣麵包車般沿路廣播叫賣.jpg
賣水車,像賣麵包車般沿路廣播叫賣
市集水果攤.jpg
市集水果攤
夜間的街頭藝人,這組是彈的最好聽的,可惜對面的餐廳的食物不及格.jpg
夜間的街頭藝人,這組是彈的最好聽的,可惜對面的餐廳的食物不及格
一般住宅區,與山坡上的密集建築.jpg
一般住宅區,與山坡上的密集建築
一般住宅區.jpg
一般住宅區
一般住宅區1.jpg
一般住宅區

z008282 2018-4-15 20:13 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

11/10 Tuxtla--San Cristobal
11/11 參團Sumierto峽谷
11/12 參觀馬雅草藥博物館,no bolms博物館等

位於海拔約2100公尺的San Cristobal是標準的旅遊城市,也擁有最標準的『洋蔥式結構』,位於歷史中心十字狀的步行街充滿了小販,咖啡館,餐廳,與街頭藝人。可惜吉他神手對面的餐廳是我吃過最糟的食物。和紀念品店(這個城市以琥珀與玉石出門),平價旅館也在這裡,再來是中產階級住宅區與高階旅館,最外圈與山坡上的密集建築是貧民窟與天然垃圾掩埋場。這裡的山坡不是陽明山,在道路品質未改善前,我不覺得有錢人會跑到那裡住。

這是我第二次參加墨西哥的散客拼團。墨西哥高度競爭與發展的旅遊業讓這些行程價格可接受。上次在Oaxaca的團時間10-19點,塞了5個景點,價格僅350pesos,約21美金,不含所有門票。這次往Sumierto峽谷僅半天時間,費用220pesos,約14美金,含接駁與近3小時的乘船旅程。但是被推崇的Sumierto峽谷對我沒有太多驚奇。它的景致類似太魯閣的天祥上游路段:深邃但是有植被的峽谷,差別僅在於生態。除外,對我來說美國國家公園的美景也大勝於此。

一次旅行參觀3座金字塔讓人驚嘆,但是30座金字塔會產生嚴重的樂趣遞減。但是之後我還有機會重遊此地嗎?接下來的旅程我不採取直接路徑往瓜地馬拉,騎單車頂多3天時間,而是繞道『馬雅公路』。但是馬雅文明建於叢林而非高原上,所以我得進入濕熱的熱帶雨林。除了一些著名景點,我慎重考慮是否走位於瓜地馬拉的5-6日『馬雅古道』,參觀遙遠的El Mirador遺址。

11/10 Tuxtla--San Cristobal
11/11 visit Sumierto canyon
11/12 visit museums in the city

San Cristobal, locates in a valley of 2100 meters above sea level, is a standard tourists city, and has the “onion structure of the residential area”. The cross pedestrian streets in historic center are stuffed with restaurants, coffee shop, vendors, street artist, and souvenir store(this city is famous for the amber and the jade). This area is also the budget hotels located. I still enjoyed the live music performance there but the restaurant opposite of the best band in town was the most lousy food I ever had. Then residential area for the mid-class and some fancy hotel around the city center. Further on the slope is the dense houses of the people having lower incomes.

I took a tour to Sumierto canyon from the city. The highly competition and development of tourism industry in Mexico makes the price of tour affordable and has quality. The tour I anticipated in Oaxaca took me to 5 sights in only 9 hours, which was quite compact and even exhausting, but it only costed me 350 pesos(21 USD) for arranging this, all the entrance fees excluded. The Sumierto canyon tour, 220 pesos or about 14 USD, is half-day schedule, with almost 3 hours of boat trip in Sumierto canyon.

It was a worthy trip, but the canyon tour weren't amazing to me. I saw similar scenery in Taiwan, and more astonishing landscape in USA. Although the ecological system there were still interesting. I am overwhelming to the wonders on the way. 3 pyramids in one journey is quite enough, and to visit 30 pyramids in one journey is too much for me. But will I have a chance to revisit? Or it's better to visit all the sights in this trip. Beyond San Cristobal, Guatemala is just 3 days away by bicycle, but I will take the Mayan route in a more humid and hotter jungle instead of cycling straightforward. And I am thinking about a 5 or 6 days hiking tour in north Guatemala jungle to El Mirador site.
Sumierto峽谷.jpg
Sumierto峽谷
Sumierto峽谷的鱷魚.jpg
Sumierto峽谷的鱷魚
Sumierto峽谷的旅遊船隻.jpg
Sumierto峽谷的旅遊船隻
Sumierto峽谷的招牌瀑布景觀.jpg
Sumierto峽谷的招牌瀑布景觀
博物館的小販,身著傳統服飾,照相要20pesos,城市所有的小販都要求相同的價碼,除了.jpg
博物館的小販,身著傳統服飾,照相要20pesos,城市所有的小販都要求相同的價碼,除了翻譯姓名成日文的日本人
城市歷史中心,穿亮綠色服裝的單車騎士是巡邏員警.jpg
城市歷史中心,穿亮綠色服裝的單車騎士是巡邏員警
城市歷史中心,與住宅屋頂的磚瓦結構.jpg
城市歷史中心,與住宅屋頂的磚瓦結構
城市歷史中心.jpg
城市歷史中心
賣水車,像賣麵包車般沿路廣播叫賣.jpg
賣水車,像賣麵包車般沿路廣播叫賣
市集水果攤.jpg
市集水果攤
夜間的街頭藝人,這組是彈的最好聽的,可惜對面的餐廳的食物不及格.jpg
夜間的街頭藝人,這組是彈的最好聽的,可惜對面的餐廳的食物不及格
一般住宅區,與山坡上的密集建築.jpg
一般住宅區,與山坡上的密集建築
一般住宅區.jpg
一般住宅區
一般住宅區1.jpg
一般住宅區

z008282 2018-4-15 20:13 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
超精明的3位日本背包客,『花30pesos把你的名字寫成日文

Super smart 3 Japanese backpackers, write your name in Japanese for 30 pesos.
超精明的3位日本背包客,『花30pesos把你的名字寫成日文.jpg

z008282 2018-4-16 22:36 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

11/13 San Cristobal--Ocosingo
11/14 參觀Tonina馬雅遺址
11/15 Ocosingo--Aqua azul

從San Cristobal,我並未跟隨高地前往瓜地馬拉,而是繞道進入馬雅公路。這段路上除了馬雅遺址,也穿越許多馬雅部落,他們有自己的語言cx。這段到Palenque約230公里的路程異常崎嶇,有許多短暫的急陡坡,在這些盲彎路段,我盡量與駕駛保持良好互動,避免讓山路變成羅馬競技場。

這段路與之前的路程大不相同。首先我幾乎不再聽到很紅的流行歌felices los 4(遠距離戀愛讓四個人都很高興),之前我大概每天聽到10次,不必再擔心路上的機動車輛與路邊的尖銳輪胎皮,原因除了他們數量稀少且謹慎,每日路程會經過至少一打的原始部落,部落內至少有一打的減速條。這些減速條好比橫在路上的水泥柱,沒注意撞下去不是開玩笑的。這些減速條當然也會降低我的速度,但是這對我不是大問題。

路上的小孩與村民總是好奇的與我打招呼。而小孩除了說hola(哈囉),也常對我說mira(看!),我實在不知道他們要我看什麼。這些部落常有垃圾問題,雖然似乎家家戶戶都有養狗多少解決垃圾問題,但是我有時還是可以『聞到』即將到來的村落。這些部落傳統認為照相會吸走靈魂,無論他們是否還相信這個傳說,多半的小孩還是對相機敬而遠之。

11/13日早上的陣雨讓位於高原的San Cristobal異常寒冷與風強,這個海拔約2100的城市在晚間僅約10度。爬上分隔城市座落的谷地的山稜後,幾段下坡讓風寒效應更加明顯,有回到早春阿拉斯加的感覺,找間餐廳用午餐暖和身子後,接下來的針葉林與點綴其中的牧地與玉米田,數個原始村落與被圈養的家禽家畜,讓這片高地雨林有獨特的風景。

在雨林中逐漸下抵海拔約1000的迷你小鎮,Ocosingo,幾乎所有旅遊設施都座落在城市中心的小公園周圍,這裡有馬雅遺址Tonina。翌日的Aqua Azul是是旅遊團的兵家必爭之地,以藍色的水池與數個絹絲瀑布聞名。步行街上有無數間紀念品店,餐廳,還有至少一打的柳丁汁店。到處可見實際上這裡不盛產的成堆柳丁。然後餐廳旁邊有一圈垃圾圍繞,雖然數量相對少了許多,且這裡有少見的回收寶特瓶,但是若想跳進水池游泳,還是往上游好。

這裡的房舍沒有街道概念,散亂的分佈在主要公路旁的開發雨林裡。一位精明的小男孩見我出現,似乎了解我不是那些佔多數只停留不過夜的旅客,馬上領我到旅社,斗大的宣傳照牌上的設施(電視與熱水等)通通沒有,後來我晃了一圈,才發現這裡的旅社(posada)相當多間,墨西哥應該沒有嚴格的旅宿法規,這裡的居民家裡有空房間就加減賺,反正不用改裝因為沒人會提供更好的設施。這個標準的旅遊小村沒有夜生活,所有小販不到7點就通通收光光。旅社沒有網路,只有一盞浴室燈泡,歡迎來到鄉下住一晚,住宿費與城市相仿。但是我還是很高興能在這裡停留,享受僻靜的夜晚與村民的友善,這我暫時停止在野外或村落露營而無法享受的氣氛。假使能抓到房間裡的蚊子就更好了。

11/13 San Cristobal--Ocosingo
11/14 visit Tonina Mayan site
11/15 Ocosingo--Aqua azul

From San Cristobal, I didn't follow the highland to Guatemala. Instead, I cycled on Mayan route, a highway with many archeological sites and original villages. This section around 230 km to Palenque, is quite hilly and has many substantial steep grades. I kept a slower pace and tried my best to keep good interaction with drivers on blind curves. I don't want the highway to become a Colosseum.

To look at the good side on the hilly leg, I almost didn't listen to the one of the hit pop song “felices los 4(remote romance makes four people happy)”, I don't comment it just listen too many times everywhere. And I almost didn't have to worry about the trucks and the sharp wires. There was less traffic and drivers are cautious, and they must be. There were numerous “topes” or speed bumps, Unlike the previous sections, there were at least a dozen of speed bumps on the highway in every village, and at least a dozen of villages in every day of this leg. The speed bumps, which were like a giant concrete columns abruptly showed up on the road, reduced my hourly speed rate considerably, but I was happy for their large appearance.

The villagers often greeted me with kindness, and the kids greeted me with “hola(hello)” or “mira(look)”. I really can't figure out what to look. The Mayans believed that the photo takes the soul away. I didn't have clues if they still have the mith but the kids usually ran away from my camera.

I waited for the shower to subside on 11/13. The foggy and drizzled weather, along with the fierce gust, made the highland around San Cristobal quite chilly as if I was in Alaska in early spring. I warmed up myself in a restaurant, and then cycled to a scenic alpine rain forest, dotted(or “developed”) with ranches and cornfield, and leisurely wandering cattles and turkeys. But there was also lots of garbage on the roadside and I can even “smell” a coming village. And the villagers kept dogs to protect their property and maybe reduce the waste on the roadside, a bothering animal which I really don't like.

With more descents then ascends, I arrived in Ocosingo, a packed town in about 1000 meters above the sea level, and well known for Tonina Mayan site. The second day I stayed in Aqua Azul(blue water), a series of silk waterfalls with popular blue ponds. There were a lot of local travelers and more foreign visitors. The pedestrian street was located with many restaurants, souvenir shops, and orange juice stand. So many oranges piling up in the stand, as if they are rich here but they were not. Around the restaurants were still trash, although in fewer amount compared to other villages and uncommonly pet bottles are recycled here. But it seemed better to find a pool upstream if you really want to jump into the cool water.

The houses most with thatch roof in Aqua Azul weren't lined up along the streets, but randomly stood up in the developed rain forest. A smart boy took me to a hotel once he saw me, as if he understood that I wasn't like the most visitors who don't overnight but only briefly stop by. All the facilities on the sign board didn't exist(hot water and TV). I strolled around after checking in and found so many hotels(posada) nearby. It seemed that there's no strict regulations to establish accommodation in Mexico and residents in Aqua Azul maximizing the value of the empty room by telling the tourist that they ran a hotel. And they knew that no one provided a good facility in the village and no need to upgrade.

Nightlife weren't found in Aqua Azul, and the business were closed before 7 pm. Welcome to a countryside for the night, the price of accommodation was similar to the price in a city. No internet in the hotel, and only a bulb in the bathroom barely lighted up the room. But I were glad to stay here, and enjoy the secluded night and the friendliness in the village, which I missed after temporary suspending to camp in the wild or in the village. It would be much enjoyable if I could deal with the mosquitos in the room.
Aqua azul(藍色水池),與救生圈.jpg
Aqua azul(藍色水池),與救生圈
Aqua azul(藍色水池),與少見的寶特瓶回收.jpg
Aqua azul(藍色水池),與少見的寶特瓶回收
Aqua azul(藍色水池).jpg
Aqua azul(藍色水池)
Aqua azul(藍色水池)1.jpg
Aqua azul(藍色水池)
Aqua azul(藍色水池)村落.jpg
Aqua azul(藍色水池)村落
Aqua azul(藍色水池)領我到旅社的小男孩.jpg
Aqua azul(藍色水池)領我到旅社的小男孩
Aqua azul(藍色水池)柳丁汁攤,當然也得賣酒.jpg
Aqua azul(藍色水池)柳丁汁攤,當然也得賣酒
Aqua azul(藍色水池)旅社.jpg
Aqua azul(藍色水池)旅社
高地(約海拔2000)路景,與豬舍.jpg
高地(約海拔2000)路景,與豬舍
高地(約海拔2000)路景,正常狀況是長滿樹的.jpg
高地(約海拔2000)路景,正常狀況是長滿樹的
高地(約海拔2000)路景.jpg
高地(約海拔2000)路景
近Aqua azul(藍色水池).jpg
近Aqua azul(藍色水池)
路景,坍方.jpg
路景,坍方
路景.jpg
路景
路景1.jpg
路景
路景與村落.jpg
路景與村落
路景與村落1.jpg
路景與村落

z008282 2018-4-18 00:01 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
11/16 Aqua Azul--Palenque

Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

類似的雨林崎嶇道路,坡度一樣陡峭。但是擁有複雜心情的一天。

首先,我遇到一位去過台灣的環球單車騎士,Carlos來自智利,旅行超過2年半正往回家的路上。這是我第一次被說行為很像台灣人。當我在一顆提供涼蔭的樹下休息時,Carlos從後面追上,我們簡單的聊天時,我提醒他後方車輛,因為這塊涼蔭沒有太多腹地而且他站的有點出去。我們約好前方找空地續攤。

『台灣製造很多自行車,但是沒有一條像樣的越野自行車道。』我向在台灣8字環島(騎中央山脈公路)的Carlos提到台灣的戶外活動環境。
『我知道你的意思,台灣的警察和居民常常跟我說xx很危險不要去,但是我跟警察說,把我銬上,要不然阻止不了我。』

他貫穿美國的路線是著名的登山越野困難路線『大分水嶺(great divide)』,想必有一定實力。他繼續說:

『你剛才跟我說注意後方車輛是就很台灣人,太小心了。』

參觀那麼多遺址,我很遺憾台灣的比亞毫遺址無人重視,甚至像所有的過夜登山路徑,得經過警察機關批准才能前往。我更遺憾的是這類侵害人權的行為,打著登山安全的旗號,居然被許多人認可。沒錯,太過小心翼翼。台灣不是太民主,是不夠民主,而且建全的民主社會條件台灣三缺二,只有民主,沒有法治和政府分工,至少在許多民眾心中。

我對他沿路露營找村民接待不意外,畢竟他以西語為母語。但是他對我墨西哥一路幾乎住旅館的『敗金』行為感到訝異。我知道我很幸運,來自經濟穩健國家,可以有一定儲蓄,可是並沒有另我期待的未來在家鄉等我。此外,因為政治因素,今天可以去的國家明天也許被拒之門外,參觀數打遺址讓我疲倦,但是旅行本質上的可能差異讓我必須克服新鮮感的快速消失。

在哈薩克的浩瀚草原露營,那裡的唯一威脅是牛糞,與在衣索比亞的簡易旅館,用蠟燭勉強照明,都是另我懷念的回憶。對我來說,住哪裡可能不是那麼重要。而在墨西哥,也許接下來的例子可以作為參考。

這段路我被村民攔下來聊天,至少看來如此。一對兄弟,其中一位外表看似20歲出頭就有明顯的啤酒肚。還有一位老先生,似乎有視力問題不斷避開刺眼的陽光。

對話中逐漸透露令人感到不安的情緒。啤酒肚男不斷用西語和英語問我那裡來,彷彿他只有3秒的記憶。人類和其他動物不同,會喝酒和xxx尋求快樂,可是有些人喝酒為了喪心病狂,xxx為了安裝中華寬頻。我見了周邊的眾多酒瓶與酒杯,了解我應該設法脫身這個不利於我環境。

最後他們如我意料地吐出money這個英語單字,我拿出『搶匪專用皮包』,交出25pesos避免情況急轉直下。我無法確認對方的想法,但是這告訴我,這裡還是墨西哥,不論我的認知,他還是被列為危險的國家。除了25pesos,我可能也喪失與路旁村民聊天的機會,因為我懷疑是否會再因為微笑停下腳步。

Another demanding hilly leg in rain forest. And a day with two remarkable events and gave me mixed feelings.

First, I met a global touring cyclist. Carlos was from Chile and had traveled more than 2 and half years. And I was told that I was very “Taiwanese” in the conversation with him. I met him first time when I was resting in the shade and he came from the back. We had a brief conversation there and at the meantime I told him to watch out for the coming truck because he was almost in the middle of car lane on the windy road.

We cycled further for a larger space on the roadside.

“When you see so many bicycles made in Taiwan, there's no mountain bike path there”. I shared one of the “wonders” in Taiwan when hearing about his bike travel in Taiwan mountains, which should be strenuous in many aspects.

“ I know what you mean, I was told by locals and police many times about the dangers on my way ahead. Once I even told the police to handcuff me or you can't stop my journey.”

He used great divide route to cyclocross USA. The route is famous for its difficulties and under maintained road conditions in many sections. So definitely he had the skill to provoke the police.

“You told me to watch out for the coming car was very”Taiwanese”. Too careful.”

I am very sad that the ancient city of the original tribe “Biyahau(比亞毫)” in Taiwan didn't received even single attention. And people have to get a permission from the police station or authority concerns before going, like every overnight hiking. You can go without a permission but there is some possible serious consequences. Another “wonder” in Taiwan, a permission before action of overnight hiking. And lots of people support the restriction for “better hiking safety”, as if they don't care about being deprived a basic right. Yes, too careful.

I didn't surprised by his choice of accommodation in Mexico, the “home stay” in a villager or camp in a tribe. Spanish was his mother language. But he was surprised to my sticking with hotels in most of days of my journey in Mexico. Sounds I am crazy rich to him. I understood that I was lucky enough to reside in a country with robust economy and had savings for the journey. But there is no bright future waiting for me in the homeland. I don't want to speak in a pessimistic tone but that's the cruel reality. And due to political issues, there's always a country to close the door to Taiwan visitors. A country I can visit now doesn't mean that I can visit next year. To visit so many ancient cities overwhelms me, but maybe I stand only one chance of visiting this country.

To wild camp on the boundless grassland in Kazakhstan with the only “threat” of cattle faeces, to overnight at a 2-USD-dollar hotel in Ethiopia with a only candle to lit up the smelly room were all precious experience. I chose hotel in Mexico for some reasons but eventually it just an option.

Another event reminded me that I was in Mexico, a state with higher crime rate no matter how I felt about traveling in the country. I was stopped by three villagers to have a chat, or I thought to be a chat. There were two young men, one appeared in his 20s and had a big beer belly, and a senior man who might have issues with the eyes due to his avoiding any contact with the dazzling sunshine. The young man kept asking me where I came from, in both English and Spanish, as if he only had memory for 3 seconds. Humans drink and have xxx for fun, but some people drink for losing the mind or having xxx for AIDS, There is a line and apparently the threes were on the other side of this line, by their talkings and the beer bottles scattered around.

Outnumbered and to avoid the possible violence, I took out my “wallet for bandits” after they spoke out the word “money” under my expectation. I lost 25 pesos and maybe also loss further chances to have a nice talk with other villagers. Will I stop for another warmth greetings and smiles? I really doubt it.
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Tonina遺址 Tonina ruins.jpg
Tonina遺址 Tonina ruins

z008282 2018-4-19 00:21 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

11/17 參觀Palenque

從馬雅遺址大鎮Palenque出發到瓜地馬拉只剩約150-200公里路程。周遭地區為叢林,地處偏遠,因此Palenque鄰近的兩個邊境關口中的陸路關口El ceibo似乎成為中美洲四國,台灣四個壞朋友居民的『自由大道』,與走私大道,當然不是走私香蕉。另一個水路關口(需搭船過Usumacinta河)Frontera corozal因為交通不便,似乎平靜很多,但是瓜地馬拉側是大約100公里的土石路。

被偷渡的國家總是重兵駐守,偷渡別人的國家隨隨便便,北韓除外。在自由大道上,墨西哥是被偷渡的國家(雖然中美洲難民的最終目的常非墨西哥),所以應該治安無慮,但是瓜地馬拉側的狀況不明,而且地圖上呈現約130公里的無居民地帶。沒有居民代表更高機率的壞東西出沒。

現在有兩個邊界選擇,一個是高機率的壞東西相伴,另一個是確定的壞路相隨,我問了一些Palenque的旅客與觀光業者,沒人能給我確切建議。當然還有另一個選擇,搭公車長驅直入。讓我想想。

11/17 visit Palenque

From town Palenque, which is famous for its Mayan city nearby, I have only about 150-200km to the border. 2 borders near Palenque, El Ceibo border is in the dense and remote jungle(compared to other main borders between Mexico and Guatemala) and is notorious for the illegal immigration and smuggling, not smuggling bananas. The other border, Frontera corozal, is much remote and tourists have to take a ferry to the other side of the Usumacinta river, which plays a role of a natural boundary between Mexico and Guatemala. Frontera Corozal border and nearby area seems calmer due to inconvenience of transportation, but about 100 km of dirt road is waiting for me once I cross the river.

The country the illegal immigrants cross to usually heavily guards the boundary, and the country providing illegal immigrants usually doesn't need to, North Korea is an exception. Mexico is the country of the rest stop of illegal immigrants on the “highway to the freedom”, so it doesn't seem like so dangerous on the Mexico side of El ceibo border. But no one could tell me the situation on the Guatemala side, a country providing immigrants. More worth, the highway on Guatemala side of El Ceibo border winds through about 130 km of wild jungle with only few inhabitants, and I really wonder if I should prepare at least a dozen of wallets for bandits.

So there are two options to Guatemala, one is calmer with strenuous unpaved section, and the other one has security concerns. I asked around in Palenque and no one could tell me what to do. Ok, there's another option: to cross by bus. I will see.
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