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z008282 2018-3-7 00:48 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

8/30 Bahia San Luis Gonzaga--Coco ‘s corner 40公里

請注意,這篇文章沒有人云亦云的馬屁,只有實話。

可憐的墨西哥政府,一條大約60公里的道路,因為經費短缺,斷斷續續的蓋了超過5年,只完成約20公里。現在還被叫去蓋牆,用樹枝蓋牆可以嗎?

從Bahia San Luis Gonzaga直到道路接回主要公路1號(highway 1)的60公里,道路改善與柏油工程正在進行,或是說應該正在進行,因為在非假日我沒看到的半個工作人員。工程內容不只是把道路鋪上柏油,原有道路的陡彎急路段,都列為改善計畫中,也就是雖然沒有雪隧要挖,但是有許多山丘要炸。砂石路是這條路幾乎沒有長途貨車的主要原因。

出發20公里後,我來到柏油路的盡頭。從海岸到中央沙漠區,海拔上升僅約700公尺,但是日間溫度上升許多,海拔約400公尺的Coco’s corner的溫度計顯示超過40度的氣溫,從12點到下午快4點。而沒有舖面的砂石路是行前就有的心理準備,想避開公路1號的車潮,就得走爛路。

Coco開的飲料店是這段路程唯一的補給,他可能也是唯一居民,現齡80,雙腳因糖尿病截肢,這些都是網路可以找到的資料。他也會邀單車騎士在廢棄的露營車過夜。我事前只把這間飲料店當作可能的補給站,但是路上遇到一對賞我水喝旅遊的年輕情侶確定Coco的飲料店有營業,這樣的話,我今天騎15公里爛路,明天20公里,下午在飲料店躲高溫,聽起來十分完美。

我的確被他邀請過夜,但是沒有閒話家常(他會說英語)。他的脾氣讓人無法苟同,我很樂意幫他忙,但是只要稍不按照心意,他就大聲疾喊,然後再用西班牙語侮辱人,我聽不懂他輕蔑的話語,可是看得懂動作。沒錯,他知道我聽不懂,所以比手畫腳的一定要我懂,這樣才叫侮辱人,對吧。至於他邀單車騎士過夜的主因,我不作評論。

讓我訝異不是這個另我焦躁不安的下午,而是在網路上只有一片叫好的讚美言辭,我一開始覺得仙人藏在山上,一定要好好敬仰一番,沒有仙人,只有很多內褲。我不打算討論掛在天花板的女性內褲,相片也不可能有。

翌日4點起床,收拾好了等待天亮,我已經很久沒有那麼期待熱死人不嘗命的太陽。頭也不回,不可以說再見的Coco’s corner。

8/29 Bahia San Luis Gonzaga--Coco ‘s corner(a drink store) 40km

Please note, there is no flattering but the truth. You might find a saint named Coco on the website but not here.

Poor Mexico government, 60 km road construction from Bahia San Luis Gonzaga to highway 1 was suspended several times due to lack of funds. After more than 5 years, only about 20 km of this section was completed. But they are about to be asked to build the wall. Is a wall built with branches ok?

The construction should be ongoing, but I didn't see any crew or running equipment on the working day. The construction is not only about to pave the road, but also improve the quality, less steeper, fewer blind curves, which indicated that many hills should be blasted or removed. But the awful quality of the old road is the reason that I could barely find a overland truth here, a reason I chose this route.

After 20 km from. Bahia San Luis Gonzaga, I arrived the temporary end of the paved road. From here to the highway 1(the major highway through Baja) junction, 700 meters higher and also hotter in the daytime. Coco’s corner, about 400 meters above sea level, temp over 40 Celsius lasted from 12pm to almost 4 pm. But I have to stand the test of high temp and dirt road to avoid the enormous heavy traffic on part of highway 1.

Coco’s corner is the only supply on the section. From website, he's 80 and has amputation below both knees due to diabetes. I didn't count on it but a young couple who kindly stopped and gave me water confirmed that Coco’s corner was open. I knew that many cyclists were invited to overnight in his old campo. So I rode 15 dirt road on that day, overnight at Coco’s corner, finish the rest 20 km dirt road on the second morning. Which also guaranteed that I didn't need to cycle on the dirt road on the heating afternoon. Sounds perfect.

I indeed was invited to overnight at Coco’s corner. But I didn't have a nice talking(He can speak English). He has a bad temper. I was pleased to assist him but he simply yelled whenever a something went against him and whenever I can't figure out what he meant. More than that, he insulted me , by Spanish and action. Yes, to make sure that I (don't understand his bad words)understood he was INSULTING ME, he acted wrenched to me. If someone is not aware he is insulted, then he is not insulted, right? I don't comment the reason he invited me and other cyclists to overnight there. And I don't have any pics of women’s underwear on the ceiling of Coco’s corner.

I wakes up early at 4am on the next day, strangely felt the deadly sunshine and heat is forwarded. I left on the twilight, without saying goodbye, and I should not say goodbye.
Coco's corner,過夜的廢棄露營車.jpg
Coco's corner,過夜的廢棄露營車
Coco's corner,是他要我拍的.jpg
Coco's corner,是他要我拍的
Coco's corner,與顯示42度的室內氣溫.jpg
Coco's corner,與顯示42度的室內氣溫
Coco's corner.jpg
Coco's corner
Puerteticos的機場跑道,供救難運送物資與私人降落.jpg
Puerteticos的機場跑道,供救難運送物資與私人降落
供旅客過夜的舊露營車內部,有空調,但是無瓦斯煤氣.jpg
供旅客過夜的舊露營車內部,有空調,但是無瓦斯煤氣
觀光小鎮San Felipe   1.jpg
觀光小鎮San Felipe
觀光小鎮San Felipe   2.jpg
觀光小鎮San Felipe
觀光小鎮San Felipe.jpg
觀光小鎮San Felipe
路景.jpg
路景
因為經費短缺,興建斷斷續續的新路(未完工,無法使用)與舊路.jpg
因為經費短缺,興建斷斷續續的新路(未完工,無法使用)與舊路

z008282 2018-3-7 15:01 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
8/31 Coco的店--Coco姊妹的店(Melany餐廳,Puerteticos鎮) 約85公里
9/1 Puerteticos--Jesus Maria 84公里

承上篇,雖然Coco的脾氣不佳,但是可能看在我拼命搖尾巴而且搖對方向的份上。他告訴我他有個姊妹在翌日的路程上有間店,我可以在那邊露營。

陰魂不散嗎?但是這段路程沒有其他住宿選項,除非跨過路旁的鐵絲網以天為幕,以仙人掌為帳。Puerteticos這個小**墓澞堪。
架高但是沒有水溝的道路.jpg
路景,農牧谷地.jpg
貼文提到的餐廳,露營地點在旁邊的涼亭— 在.jpg
文章提到的拿水壺架螺絲鎖貨架.jpg
z008282 2018-3-8 09:43 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

9/2 颱風假
9/3 Valle de Jesus Maria--Grerrero negro 36公里
9/4 Grerrero negro--Viznacio 72公里

颱風Lidia在半島南部造成不小災情,但是到了這裡,已減弱成輕度颱風下限且未登陸,而小鎮的地質屬於沙質土壤(沙漠嗎…),因此並未積水嚴重,雖然公路上仍有幾處我需要繞路的深積水。

我躲颱風的旅館只有三間房間,老闆自己住一間,剩下兩間租客。這是名副其實的『環保旅館』,房間內沒有毛巾、衛生紙與盥洗用具,我個人支持這項做法,雖然沒有這些一次性用品的原因並不是環保心態,但是缺乏競爭的結果讓這間旅館價格高於平均,一晚600peso,約美金37元。颱風來襲當日,老闆非常緊張的不斷跑到屋頂掃水,積水會把水泥平房壓垮嗎?

這個小插曲可以明顯發現這裡完全沒有防災能力,幸好颱風侵襲並不多見。而這幾天的高潮是『第二位墨西哥朋友。』我在Coco姐妹的餐廳遇到Rolando,他主動邀我到位於名字很饒舌的小鎮Grerrero negro的住處用餐。我抵達小鎮安頓好後隨即向他聯絡。

當餐桌送上象拔貝時(包含一盤佐以洋蔥切片和一籃混合黃瓜與洋蔥碎塊的涼拌),我有點不知所措,這不便宜吧。但是後來我知道他是漁民,有不少機會捕獲高經濟價值的漁獲。另外,讓這個小鎮著名的冬季賞鯨他也有參與。他們搭配平淡無味的玉米餅吃,玉米餅上塗抹厚厚的美乃茲。他其中一個兒子還是拳擊國手。翌日早餐他夫人準備了『menudo』,就是豬肚湯。我們溝通的管道包含一位說破西語,一位說破英文,還有不太可靠的網路翻譯。感謝他的慷慨。

從這個靠海小鎮,主要道路再次橫越半島到氣溫較高的東岸,海拔翻閱已不再像半島北部高聳,而交通流量也稀少許多。

9/2 Hurricane vacation
9/3 Valle de Jesus Maria--Grerrero negro 36 km
9/4 Grerrero negro--Viznacio 72 km

Hurricane Lidia brought damages to the southernmost part of Baja peninsula, but didn't bring something serious to the nearby area where I stay for the bad weather because it didn't land and had weakened to tropical storm. And the small town, Valle de Jesus Maria, is located on the sand soil, so the instant heavy rainfall didn't accumulate to become a flood. But there was still some puddles on the highway and I had to detour.

I stayed in a mini hotel only has 3 rooms, and one of the room was the owner’s home! The hotel was an eco hotel although I don't think that the owner has an eco thought. No towels, no papers, nothing disposables in the room. I support to reduce the use of disposables but the hotel was simply overpriced due to lack of competitions, 600 pesos, about 37 USD per night. The owner hotch on the hurricane day and went to remove the waters on the roof of the single-story house. I wonder if the ceiling might collapse due to heavy water accommodation.

I realized that the infrastructure here is not able to prevent the village slammed by super Hurricane on the day. But the climax was a dinner invited by Rolando, a friend I met in Melany restaurant, Coco’s sister’s restaurant. He lives in Grerrero Negro and told me to connect him when I arrived. I did it.

I was stunned when seeing two geoduck clam dishes was served. One is sliced with onion slices and the other is chopped with cucumber and also onion. I don't think geoduck clam is cheap. But I soon realized that Mr. Rolando is a fisherman and also an assistant of whale watching travel, an attraction of Grerrero Negroponte in winter. They ate with plain corner biscuits spread out with mayonnaise. And he has a son of a famous boxer. His wife prepared”menudo” (pork tripe soup)on the second morning. I communicated with poor Spanish, and he used limited English vocabulary, plus the unreliable online translation, we could understand each other in most cases. Thanks for his generosity.

From Grerrero negro, a small town on the west of Peninsula by Pacific ocean, the highway goes over to inland and heads to East coast. But there is no more high mountains and the traffic is far less than the north part.
積水深時,該低窪處可能很難通過.jpg
積水深時,該低窪處可能很難通過
路景.jpg
路景
晚餐,象拔貝和常見的酪梨.jpg
晚餐,象拔貝和常見的酪梨
需要繞路的道路積水.jpg
需要繞路的道路積水
早餐 menudo,豬肚湯.jpg
早餐 menudo,豬肚湯

z008282 2018-3-9 16:27 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

9/4 Grerrero Negro--Viznaico 72公里
9/5 Viznaico--San Ignacio 70公里
9/6 San Ignacio--Santa Rosalia 73公里

這三天的路程由西海岸再度橫越到東海岸,從太平洋岸到Cortez海,地形西緩東陡,也就是若由西往東,先緩上到海拔約600公尺,再兩個陡下坡到海岸。第二個陡下坡,里程大約為17-11公里,海拔下降超過300公尺,加上坡度並不平均,有數段超過10%,加上急彎,有curva infierno的名號,或是開玩笑的翻譯成『通往地獄的險坡』。

除了了解到中午過後數小時的超過37度的氣溫不是拿來克服的,而是拿來避免的之外(也就是我得妥善安排行程,早出早歸),這段路沒有太多驚奇,除了有人用流利的英文說他已經要到水了,所以給他食物就好,這是第二次被攔車索物,我只能希望過程都能如此和平。

接下來內容稍微聊一下在下加州半島的生活事項,這篇談水和住宿。

墨西哥自來水不可生飲,取得飲用水最快的方式是到商店購買,不論價格,這個方式最大的問題是這裡不回收寶特瓶,製造一堆塑膠垃圾並不環保。我對單車旅行一向有個認知,這應該是環保的運動,但是若因為吃多喝多製造一堆垃圾,尤其是不可回收的,那就失去本意。

比較有規模的城鎮有類似台灣『加水站』的私人店鋪,差別是有人駐守,可以要求小容積的補充,大約1公升1peso(台幣1.8元)。請參見照片,雖不如商店般多見但可一試。商店也有賣1加侖,大約3.3公升的飲用水,雖然還是製造塑膠垃圾,但是便宜許多,約20peso(新台幣36元)。

住宿方面,在沙漠隨地露營不是不可能,可是得克服鐵絲圍籬,還有安全問題。之前文章提過,整體來說,下加州半島不危險,但是針對偏遠觀光區的犯罪偶有所聞,更別忘記這裡槍枝取得容易。所以使用私人露營地要評估它的安全性,一般來說,觀光客稀少的小村鎮多半是安全的且居民友善。

旅館住宿價格不算便宜但可接受,雙人房會依入住人數定價,單人入住約400-600peso,約700-1100台幣,可要求看房間,並記得檢查wifi或手機訊號。

9/4 Grerrero Negro--Viznaico 72km
9/5 Viznaico--San Ignacio 70km
9/6 San Ignacio--Santa Rosalia 73km

I followed the highway 1, the only paved through road in Baja, from west Pacific ocean to east sea of Cortez in the three days. Gently gained altitude to about 600 meters in sea level, then dropped to the east coastline in only two short steep slopes, the second one, curva infierno, means curves of hell, located from milepost 17 to 11, descend over 300 meters in high altitude. More worse, it doesn't descend evenly, several short sections of more than 10% grades with sharp curves, makes its mark.

This section was ordinary. But I understood that the highway temp, more than 37 degrees, is not something to overcome, but to avoid. So I should always try to start early and arrive in early afternoon. And I was asked food again! The man speaked fluent English and told me he had got water. I hope things always go smoothly like that. Tell me what you need, not point me with something and get what you want.

I will cover something about the travel life in Baja California. Water and accommodation in the next.

The tap water is not drinkable in Mexico. But pet bottles are not recycled in Baja. So I always try to refill the water bottle in “ purificadora de aqua”, means somewhere sells pure water(about 1peso of 1 liter), instead of buying the water in the store and produce “un-recyclable” plastic trashes. It's not widely distributed like stores and can only be found in towns of medium to large scale, but worth a try. Or the 1 gallon water bottle, about 1.2USD, is another choice to reduce the budget and maybe reduce the plastic waste. I think that cycling should be an eco friendly activity, but if a cyclist produces more waste, especially the un-recyclable one, due to eats and drinks more. Then cycling becomes a burdan to the nature, also the cyclist.

About accommodation. It's not impossible to wild camp in the desert. But the camper has to deal with the wire fence along the roadside, not to mention the safety concerns. I don't regard Baja as a dangerous place,but the crime targeting the remote tourists area is not uncommon, and don't forget that the weapons is highly accessible in Mexico. So use wise and caution in the ** campsite, especially in the tourists area. But the small towns are usually very safe and people are friendly.

The price of hotels is not cheap but acceptable. The single occupancy rate is a bit cheaper than the double occupancy in the same double room. You can see the room before check-in, about 30-40 Usd in a basic room. And don't forget to check the wifi of cellphone single in the room.
sea of Cortez與小鎮Santa Rosalia(照片右側海岸).jpg
sea of Cortez與小鎮Santa Rosalia(照片右側海岸)
sea of Cortez與小鎮Santa Rosalia(照片右側海岸)1.jpg
sea of Cortez與小鎮Santa Rosalia(照片右側海岸)
第二段險降坡.jpg
第二段險降坡
第二段險降坡頂點,已可見Cortez海.jpg
第二段險降坡頂點,已可見Cortez海
第一段險降坡.jpg
第一段險降坡
火山 Las Tres Virgenes,最近噴發西元1746.jpg
火山 Las Tres Virgenes,最近噴發西元1746
文章提到的加水站.jpg
文章提到的加水站

z008282 2018-3-10 13:38 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
9/4 Grerrero Negro--Viznaico 72公里
9/5 Viznaico--San Ignacio 70公里
9/6 San Ignacio--Santa Rosalia 73公里

這三天的路程由西海岸再度橫越到東海岸,從太平洋岸到Cortez海,地形西緩東陡,也就是若由西往東,先緩上到海拔約600公尺,再兩個陡下坡到海岸。第二個陡下坡,里程大約為17-11公里,海拔下降超過300公尺,加上坡度並不平均,有數段超過10%,加上急彎,有curva infierno的名號,或是開玩笑的翻譯成『通往地獄的險坡』。

除了了解到中午過後數小時的超過37度的氣溫不是拿來克服的,而是拿來避免的之外(也就是我得妥善安排行程,早出早歸),這段路沒有太多驚奇,除了有人用流利的英文說他已經要到水了,所以給他食物就好,這是第二次被攔車索物,我只能希望過程都能如此和平。

接下來內容稍微聊一下在下加州半島的生活事項,這篇談水和住宿。

墨西哥自來水不可生飲,取得飲用水最快的方式是到商店購買,不論價格,這個方式最大的問題是這裡不回收寶特瓶,製造一堆塑膠垃圾並不環保。我對單車旅行一向有個認知,這應該是環保的運動,但是若因為吃多喝多製造一堆垃圾,尤其是不可回收的,那就失去本意。

比較有規模的城鎮有類似台灣『加水站』的私人店鋪,差別是有人駐守,可以要求小容積的補充,大約1公升1peso(台幣1.8元)。請參見照片,雖不如商店般多見但可一試。商店也有賣1加侖,大約3.3公升的飲用水,雖然還是製造塑膠垃圾,但是便宜許多,約20peso(新台幣36元)。

住宿方面,在沙漠隨地露營不是不可能,可是得克服鐵絲圍籬,還有安全問題。之前文章提過,整體來說,下加州半島不危險,但是針對偏遠觀光區的犯罪偶有所聞,更別忘記這裡槍枝取得容易。所以使用私人露營地要評估它的安全性,一般來說,觀光客稀少的小村鎮多半是安全的且居民友善。

旅館住宿價格不算便宜但可接受,雙人房會依入住人數定價,單人入住約400-600peso,約700-1100台幣,可要求看房間,並記得檢查wifi或手機訊號。
sea of Cortez與小鎮Santa Rosalia(照片右側海岸).jpg
sea of Cortez與小鎮Santa Rosalia(照片右側海岸)
sea of Cortez與小鎮Santa Rosalia(照片右側海岸)1.jpg
sea of Cortez與小鎮Santa Rosalia(照片右側海岸)
第二段險降坡.jpg
第二段險降坡
第二段險降坡頂點,已可見Cortez海.jpg
第二段險降坡頂點,已可見Cortez海
第一段險降坡.jpg
第一段險降坡
火山 Las Tres Virgenes,最近噴發西元1746.jpg
火山 Las Tres Virgenes,最近噴發西元1746
文章提到的加水站.jpg
文章提到的加水站

z008282 2018-3-13 10:43 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

9/7 Santa Rosalia--Mulege 60公里
9/8 Mulege--餐廳Las Palmas 73公里
9/9 Las Palmas--Loreto 62公里

位於地震帶的墨西哥又發生大地震。我們除了祈禱傷亡不要擴大外,要了解首都墨西哥城的預警系統這次拯救許多生命,我對政治沒興趣,但是像之前貼文所提,自私的政策,例如叫墨西哥出錢蓋牆(不論用直接或貿易手段等間接方式),多少會排擠預算,然後會造成什麼後果?

這段路程有兩個重點,一是一段風景優美的岩岸海岸-Bahia de concepcion,這是Baja半島和Baja半島東部的小半島圍成的海域,除了地貌,更有許多白色純淨沙灘與露營地,palapa,意思是木棚或草棚搭建的簡易營位遮蔽,高處眺望像沙灘上的褐色蘑菇,十分有趣。

另一個是我9/8過夜的地點。在海岸路程最後一個可靠開放的海灘-playa Buenoventura,雖然我抵達的時間餐廳尚未開放(我本來機會在此用餐順便躲太陽,但是餐廳下午3點才營業)。工作人員除了好心的翻出一瓶飲料賣我,也確認了我本來不認為可靠的補給站,32公里遠的餐廳Las Palmas。

稍微休息後,我大約於下午2點再度出發。從海岸到內陸平原是一段階梯狀的上坡,而餐廳Las Palmas座落在一條看天河旁。他們爽快的答應我在這裡露營過夜的請求(免費),也精明的賣給我一加侖的飲用水,雖然我傾向於把我的水壺裝滿,以避免製造塑膠垃圾,但是我無法讓這裡的商家了解我的想法,即使我願意花費一樣的價錢。

這是家族經營餐廳,所有家族成員都住在餐廳後方,也是貨車休息站,或是更貼切的說,路途補給有限,扣除市中心與停車不易的,剩下的餐廳自然成為貨車司機必訪。傍晚整家族,包含三個小孩和一直還不夠大不懂追單車的狗,坐在依靠電動機發電的餐廳外乘涼。一位停留休息的貨車司機連說帶跳的讓大夥(不包括我,因為聽不懂)笑得合不攏嘴。

偏遠地區沒有自來水管路,但是載水車讓這裡水源不渝匱乏,早上看到他們澆花並往地上灑水固沙,完全不像在乾旱區中需斤斤計較水資源的使用。而屋外的大垃圾桶中的垃圾最後去向,除了偶爾垃圾車到訪載到掩埋場外,更偏遠的地區或是垃圾製造量不大的一般住家,則是居民自己開車把他們載到荒郊野外『棄屍』。

我露營的地點是餐廳的圍牆內,除了安全,也避免車聲吵雜。除了夜晚仍然炎熱影響睡眠外,我想這是最好的住所之一。

9/7 Santa Rosalia--Mulege 60km
9/8 Mulege--Las Palmas restaurant 73km
9/9 Las Palmas--Loreto 62km

Mexico, locates on a seismic zone, was hit by a massive earthquake few days ago. We can hope for the fewer casualties there, to do something we could do. And also we should understand the alarm system in the capital, ciudad de Mexico, saved many lives. What happened if the budget for the alarm system was used to build a wall? I am not talking about politics, but the possible impact of a selfish policy to another country.

There were two highlights on the section. First one is the scenic rocky coast of Bahia de Concepcion, a sea area surrounded by Baja peninsula and another small peninsula. The palapa which the thatch and branch are used to made a campsite shed, looks like a brown mushroom from high point. Interesting scenery.

Another highlight was where I overnighted, Las Palmas restaurant. I confirmed the restaurant was open in the last reliable open coastline campground, Buenoventura, where I planned to have lunch and to dodge the heat of mid afternoon but the restaurant was open until 3 pm. Other than telling me about the information of Las Palmas restaurant, the staff sold me a canned drink although the restaurant was closed. After a short break, I hit the road again at about 2 pm for Las Palmas restaurant, 32 km away. The highway ascent in a staircase manner from coastline to the higher inland. And the restaurant was besides a dry river.

Las Palmas restaurant was run by a friendly family and they all lived behind the restaurant. Their ready positive answer of my request of camping there seemed to suggest that some cyclists overnighted there before. And they sold me a gallon of drinking water, instead of a small bottle one. Although I preferred to refill my bottle instead of getting the new one and made plastic waste. I had difficulty of expressing my thoughts to reduce the plastic waste to the stores here even I am willing to pay the same price as the new bottle water.

This restaurant was also a truckers stop. In the evening, all the family, including three kids and a puppy which hadn't understood to chase the running wheels of the bicycle, rested and enjoyed the cool breeze outside the restaurant. A trucker stopped by, whom the family acquainted I guessed, joked and made the family grinned from ear to ear. A peaceful scenery which is seldom seen in the cities.

There was no tap water like lots of remote area in Mexico, but a truck ships water once a while to make sure that there is no problem of water shortage. And they have plenty of water for plants in the garden, no need to calculate the use of every drop of water. The trash was collected and shipped to the sanitary landfill site once in awhile, but some remote ** property, doesn't produce much waste, deal with their waste in the own manner. That's what I learned from staying there.

I was allowed to camp inside the fence, where was isolated from the noise of the traffic on the highway. This was one of the best campsite I stayed, although the summer heat was still kind of unbearable at night.
Bahia de Concepcion海景 1.jpg
Bahia de Concepcion海景
Bahia de Concepcion海景 2.jpg
Bahia de Concepcion海景
Bahia de Concepcion海景 3.jpg
Bahia de Concepcion海景
Bahia de Concepcion海景 4.jpg
Bahia de Concepcion海景
Bahia de Concepcion海景 5.jpg
Bahia de Concepcion海景
Bahia de Concepcion海景,Buenoventura露營地.jpg
Bahia de Concepcion海景,Buenoventura露營地
Bahia de Concepcion海景,Buenoventura露營地與工作人員.jpg
Bahia de Concepcion海景,Buenoventura露營地與工作人員
Bahia de Concepcion海景,與蘑菇狀的露營草棚palapa 1.jpg
Bahia de Concepcion海景,與蘑菇狀的露營草棚palapa
Bahia de Concepcion海景,與蘑菇狀的露營草棚palapa.jpg
Bahia de Concepcion海景,與蘑菇狀的露營草棚palapa
Bahia de Concepcion海景.jpg
Bahia de Concepcion海景
可憐的旅館清潔人員,房間掉東西算她的.jpg
可憐的旅館清潔人員,房間掉東西算她的
路景,利用積水洗車的司機.jpg
路景,利用積水洗車的司機
我過夜的Las Palmas restaurant 1.jpg
我過夜的Las Palmas restaurant
我過夜的Las Palmas restaurant,餐廳內部.jpg
我過夜的Las Palmas restaurant,餐廳內部
我過夜的Las Palmas restaurant,與旁邊的神壇.jpg
我過夜的Las Palmas restaurant,與旁邊的神壇
我過夜的Las Palmas restaurant.jpg
我過夜的Las Palmas restaurant

祝楼主安全完成梦想
z008282 2018-3-14 11:52 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
有间鞋店1 发表于 2018-3-13 13:23
祝楼主安全完成梦想

謝謝,同樣的祝福也獻給您·
z008282 2018-3-14 11:56 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

9/10 Loreto--餐廳El Partiquo 56公里
9/11 餐廳--Ciudad Constitucion 91公里

看似單調的乾旱道路,實際上有許多有趣的事。首先,在Loreto郊區,一位汽車駕駛試圖把3隻衝出來的惡犬與我分離,於是我、駕駛,和三隻狗在路上大玩捉迷藏,期間還有零星幾台貨車經過,這讓我想起一首歌『我可以為你擋狗』。過了狗的勢力範圍,憋笑得向駕駛道謝後,續往南沿海岸線騎乘。

約38公里後,在最後雜貨店灌飽水後,道路再度穿越崎嶇的東部海岸稜脈,經過著名的Ligui隘口,通往中部平原。陡峭的Ligui隘口是地獄,之前險峻的下坡也是地獄,現在天氣太熱,到哪裡都是地獄。事實上,這段8公里上坡上升約400公尺,對多數單車騎士不算太難。這段路上有許多汽車輕按喇叭向我打招呼,我想這個時節單車的存在對他們可能極富娛樂效果。

不只炙熱,住哪裡也是大問題,把路上的餐廳當作過夜地點實在不可靠,更何況這段路上只有一間餐廳。幸好我在買椰子的小販向對向來車司機確認唯一餐廳不是鄉野傳奇。對了,小販把椰肉加了一堆辣椒和鹽巴,對我是暴殄天物,他卻吃得斤斤有味。

雖然Baja半島不算是單車聖地,但是只有一條貫穿南北的柏油道路,加上沿路設施有限,路上的餐廳想必很習慣單車騎士的出現,尤其是那些語言不通的。每當結帳,這家餐廳的女主人以計算機取代言語,告知我價錢,一整個下午我可以說是枯坐著等看夕陽,看完夕陽等看星月,看來我被歸類成『我們說什麼他都聽不懂』的那類旅客。在餐廳露營雖然可以感到當地人的友善,但並不是能夠好好休息放鬆的方式。高溫,在帳棚蚊帳外面蠢蠢欲動的大匹蚊子,還有半夜鬼叫的狗,一隻叫累了另一隻接著叫,還有另我發寒的巴掌大黑黃色蜘蛛悠悠爬過。而這間餐廳並不像上一間有豐富的食物選擇,我的晚餐是玉米糊(maize)配煎蛋,要價60peso,約台幣100。

翌日早晨起了五里大霧,就像冬天的淡水,但是這裡還是乾旱氣候!趁短暫的涼爽氣溫小暴衝的抵達目的地後,找到一間價性比ok且有飲水機的旅店,但是附近餐廳陪我吃晚餐的大批蒼蠅,也許是造成腸胃輕微不適的原因,休息日也因此誕生。

9/10 Loreto--restaurant El Partiquo 56 km
9/11 restaurant--Ciudad Constitucion 91 km

There was still something interesting in the section of seeming to be a rut. First one was the seek and hide between me, a red sedan, and 3 dogs in Loreto downtown: a drive tried to use the car to separate me from 3 mean dogs, few truck passed in the meantime. I held my laughter and expressed my gratitude after we left the territory of the dogs, and then I kept going, to another notorious section of the highway.

A well stocked mini market showed up about 38 km later, just before Ligui pass, about 8 km to ascend 400 meters in a staircase manner. It was terrible to me, and frankly, everywhere on the highway was kind of miserable because of the heat. And several drivers honked cheerfully to me on the section, I thought the dull existence of a bicycle must be an amusement to them.

As described in the previous post, I tried to confirmed the restaurant where I planned to camp was open on the road, and there was only one on the way on 9/10. I stopped at a coconut stand and a driver from opposite direction told me a restaurant was reliable open about 40 km away. The stand seasoned the coconut with spices and salts, too much for me so I only had the juice.

Baja California was not boomed in bicycle tourism, but the only paved through highway and limited facilities in most sections make sure the restaurant was familiar with cyclists. This was what I encountered in the overnight restaurant on 9/10. I got the warm invitation of staying there, but it was boring because I was cataloged in the cyclists of “he doesn't understand and speak Spanish”. The owner told me the price with the calculator and she didn't even try to talk to me! And it was still a sleepless night due to heat, mosquitos, and dog barkings. I even saw a palm sized spider in black dotted with yellow. The restaurant had very limited food options, I had dinner of eggs and maize, 60 pesos or about 3.5USD.

I took advantage of foggy and cooler temp to rushed to the big town on 9/11. I luckily found a nice hotel with fountain machine in good price. But the dinner in the restaurant nearby with sort of sanitary conditions(so many flies) caused a bit of stomach issues. A rest day is decided then.
Ligui隘口路段.jpg
Ligui隘口路段
Loreto鎮的古蹟教堂Mission nuestra senora de Loreto.jpg
Loreto鎮的古蹟教堂Mission nuestra senora de Loreto
Loreto鎮的海岸,左側遠方為Carmen島.jpg
Loreto鎮的海岸,左側遠方為Carmen島
Loreto鎮的海岸.jpg
Loreto鎮的海岸
Loreto鎮的海岸豪宅.jpg
Loreto鎮的海岸豪宅
Loreto鎮的簡易旅館,佔地小只有不到10間房,因此無線網路訊號良好。無線網路訊號是許.jpg
Loreto鎮的簡易旅館,佔地小只有不到10間房,因此無線網路訊號良好。無線網路訊號是許多旅館的通病
Loreto鎮的簡易旅館San Martin,380peso,約新台幣650.jpg
Loreto鎮的簡易旅館San Martin,380peso,約新台幣650,約人民幣140
當日過夜餐廳.jpg
當日過夜餐廳
當日過夜餐廳1.jpg
當日過夜餐廳
文章提到的椰子攤.jpg
文章提到的椰子攤

z008282 2018-3-15 09:48 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

9/13 Ciudad de Constitucion--在公路里程76公里的餐廳 136公里
9/14 餐廳(loncheria)--La paz 76公里

之前在小鎮Grerrero negro受當地漁民邀請到他家用餐居然還有續集。他的朋友家庭在9/13當天正好經過,在內容一半雞同鴨講一半有聽沒懂的寒暄後,他們送我幾顆橘子。數量有些多,所以我決定把其中一兩顆橘子送給路上的好心人,讓愛心傳下去;若遇不到好心人,我就把愛心通通吃下去。

類似的狀況,超過200公里的路程,除了接近La pas(南下加州的首府)的補給開始多得不像話外,剩下路程又是同樣的遊戲:餐廳密碼。趁著北風快速前進到Las poticas,距離出發地96公里,一個路上的指示牌一直有里程提示的小鎮,用午餐的機會打聽下一間餐廳位置。下一間餐廳位於El cien,顧名思義位於公路里程100公里,而在El cien我幸運的得到了完整的餐廳位置密碼。

完整的利用全部的日照時間,不論正午氣溫為何,為得是能早點到Baja旅程的目的地La paz,從這裡將搭渡輪往墨西哥本土。當日於La paz都會區前的最後一間可靠餐廳落腳。這裡相對有現代化的內裝,除了食物,也販賣許多手工裝飾品,這家人示意我在圍籬內隨意找空地露營,至於半夜如往常鬼叫的狗,習慣就好,至少當天晚上沒看到蚊子和大蜘蛛。我當晚把橘子送給他們,不知是出於無比的善心,還是看在橘子的份上,翌日他們則給我一份免費早餐,原價90peso,約5.5美金的火腿炒蛋配玉米餅皮。我在這裡遇到第一位,也是最後一位單車旅行騎士。他當日抵達餐廳時已鐵門拉下,於是他直接在餐廳門口旁邊空地露營。每個人都有不同的安全忍受係數,若找不到餐廳,我會找隱密地點露營:『我看得到別人,別人看不到我』的原則。

下加州半島的旅程,原本我很擔心這裡的交通狀況,例如『不給我路就給我死』的貨車司機,但事實上,大多數駕駛,尤其是貨車駕駛,對我十分禮遇。一位略懂英語的貨車司機跟我說過,若他單車騎士,接下來幾天都會在路上看到他,甚至司機可以推敲出看到單車騎士的時間與地點。將心比心,因為多數地區路幅狹窄,所以我在有對向車隊或前方有盲彎使得後方車輛無法超我車時,我會閃避讓後方來車通過。當然我不能一直以單車騎士的觀點看待其他的駕駛行為,例如這裡偶爾會看到的『尊重單車騎士,超車至少保持1.5公尺距離』的告示牌,對單車不熟悉的汽車駕駛可能會冒出許多疑問,例如『為什麼要保持1.5公尺距離,難道超汽車也要保持1.5公尺距離嗎?那摩托車呢?』以後有機會再討論這個問題。

9/13 Ciudad de Constitucion--restaurant at milepost of 76 km 136km
9/14 restaurant(loncheria)--La paz 76 km

A sequel of the feast of geoduck clam which I was invited in Grerrero Negro by Rolando, a kind fisherman I met as the previous post mentioned. I got a feast of oranges on the road. Rolando’s friend, chanced to see me on the highway, stopped by and had a chat with me in kind of barely communication, then he gave me about half dozen of oranges. The quantity of oranges were a bit too many for me, so I decided to give one or two of them to friendly people if there was, i.e., I passed some of the kindness or I ate all the kindness.

This was still the section of lacking of facilities. I rode fast on the north wind(tailwind) in the morning and arrived Las politas, 96 km from where I started, only in the mid noon, and got some information in a restaurant about the further journey: there was another store in El cien, which means a village at milepost 100 km. And I got the password of restaurants location in El cien. What a luck!

I rode almost all day long regardless of the high temp in mid noon in order to arrive La paz earlier, where I will take the ferry to Mexico mainland. By the password of the restaurant location, I stopped at the last reliable one, where has comparatively modern decoration and sold not only basic foods but handcrafts. They told me to camp anywhere I want inside the fence. There was still barking dogs, but without mosquitoes and palm sized spiders. I gave the family an orange, and they provided me a free breakfast(fried eggs with hams and tordillas) in the second morning. I met the only bicycle traveler in Baja here. He arrived when the restaurant was closed and camped on the large space outside of the restaurant. Everyone has different safety tolerance. For me, I searched for a hidden place to camp, followed the rules of “ I can see others but others can't see me” if the restaurant was not open.

I was worried about journey in Baja, where I heard about the truckers of “giving me the whole lane or making you a pancake”. Instead, I found most drivers, especially the truckers, were in whole cautious and willing to share to road, or share their road. I was told by a trucker who understands a little English that he expects to see a cyclist on the coming days if he found one on the first day. And he could even speculate where and what time to see the cyclist. Thinking for others, I stopped on the roadside for the coming cars when I saw a queue of vehicles from the opposite direction or a blind curve ahead, conditions of the coming driver having difficulty or danger to pass me. Of course we can't discuss the road right of cyclists on a cyclist’s view all the time. For example, I found few signpost of “respect the cyclists and pass them in the distance of no less than 1.5 meters. A driver might ask: why should I pass the cyclist with such a huge distance? How about to pass a car or motorcycle? I will discuss this topic later.
La paz 1.jpg
La paz
La paz.jpg
La paz
La paz有許多免費草棚(payapa)供民眾休憩,往本土的渡船頭在對面鎮區.jpg
La paz有許多免費草棚(payapa)供民眾休憩,往本土的渡船頭在對面鎮區
過夜的無名餐廳,與另位單車旅客的單車.jpg
過夜的無名餐廳,與另位單車旅客的單車
近La paz,可見sea de Cortez與對岸的Ceralvo島.jpg
近La paz,可見sea de Cortez與對岸的Ceralvo島
路景,過夜餐廳位於照片右上角.jpg
路景,過夜餐廳位於照片右上角
位於公路里程100的店家,提供我路程的餐廳資訊.jpg
位於公路里程100的店家,提供我路程的餐廳資訊
文章提到Rolando的朋友.jpg
文章提到Rolando的朋友
椰子口味的運動飲料.jpg
椰子口味的運動飲料

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