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z008282 2017-10-7 16:16 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
6/11 白硫磺溫泉鎮(white sulphur springs))--大廷伯(big timber) 94英里(94 miles)
累死人的一天。
原本計畫不是這樣的。89號景觀跨州公路接到跨州高速公路後,就該找地方過夜,但是實際情形有點失控。
先說明跨州高速公路(interstate,就像台灣的國道高速公路)對於自行車的規範。大部分州與大城市(例如紐約舊金山等)都禁止自行車騎上跨州高速公路,但是有許多例外,搞清楚這些規範不容易,但是卻容易現場判斷。
相信我,自行車絕對是不會想騎上跨州高速公路,即使有寬闊路況良好的路肩,除非你很喜歡看橫死街頭的動物,蒙大拿速限80英里(約130公里)還算低的。但是在沒有替代道路的情況,或是跨州高速公路取代原有道路,自行車只能騎上跨州高速公路,這些狀況並不會禁止自行車使用。所謂替代道路指的是平行道路,而非需要翻山越嶺繞ㄧ大圈的道路。這些平行提到道路的名稱往往是:frontage road或old U.S xx(舊美國xx號公路)等。
蒙大拿是少數允許自行車使用跨州高速公路的州。但是我還是盡量使用平行道路。從89號景觀道路岔路口到大廷伯27英里,跨州高速公路沿者黃石河興建,沿路有許多釣魚場地(fushing access site)提供露營,但是它們無人看守,而露營費一晚18美金,但是我最小面額鈔票是50美金,而且找不到地方換錢。我不想知道不付錢的下場。
最後在晚上8點來到大廷伯,離日落時間還有約1小時半,最近的私人露營區離城鎮中心3英里。我決定先吃晚餐再過去。在大約9點到露營場地後,閘門已放下,有個牌子寫到:
『夜已深,我們關門了,閘門旁邊的青草地隨便你用。』
夜已深個頭,太陽都還沒下山。只不過住免錢合法的也好。約半小時後,有輛露營車來了,駕駛跟我一樣傻眼。我把手機借他聯絡露營場地主人,電話有通但是閘門還是沒開。有些年紀的露營車駕駛是『網路導遊(internet travel guide)』,工作內容大概是上網po照片寫遊記
等。我們翌日早上在咖啡店聊了一會兒。新朋友和免費露營地,全因為我遲到,因禍得福,
接下來兩天是明天過後的重頭戲,找了旅館乖乖躲起來不出門囉。接下來由號稱美國最美公路的熊牙公路(beartooth highway)前往黃石國家公園。
94 miles in one day, exhausted.
The plan wasn't this, but the plan went south with me. I should find a campsites after the junction of highway 89 and interstate. But I failed. Let me briefly introduce the regulations for bicycles on the interstate highway.
The thumb of the rule is “cyclists should avoid using the interstate highway.”. And it's forbidden in most cases. Believe me, you don't want to cycle on the interstate highway, even on the well-maintained wide shoulder. Unless you like to see “dogs or mammots pancake” on the way. But there are still many exceptions. Montana is one of the states allows cyclists to use the interstate highway. Also, when alternative road is absent(“ alternative road” means a paved road parallels the interstate, not the one the cyclist need to detour for mush distance longer. The alternative road is usually name frontage roads or old road, and could be searched on google map.
Frontage road of Interstate 90, which I rode in most of time after the junction of highway 89, built along Yellowstone river, which lots of fishing access site provide primitive campground nearby. I found one unstaffed, but I don't have smaller note for the 18 dollars camping fee. No access to exchange for smaller banknotes, either. I don't want to know the consequences of failing to pay.
I arrived Big Timber on 8 p.m., and nearest campground is located 3 miles from downtown. I decided to have supper before heading there. I arrived at the campground at around 9:10pm, it was already gated for the night, but the sun was still above the horizon(the sunset time is about9:30pm.) I also saw a signpost to the late arrivers to overnight on the grassy field next to the gate. A free and legal campsite, why not?
A RV came at around 9:30pm. The driver was also suprised that the campground was gated. I lent him my mobil to call the campground office. The call was answered but he still have no accesse to get in. I had a little chat with the RV driver, also a internet tour guide next morning. A new friend and a free campground, these good things happened because I was too late to arrive, because something that should be a disaster.
After the camping day, comes two days of winter severe weather conditions. I stayed in Big Timber for this two days. After that, go to Yellowstone national park by beartooth highway, the one of the most scenic road in USA.
黃石河岸釣魚場地,許多供露營.jpg
黃石河岸釣魚場地,許多供露營
露營地點,在私人露營地門口外,另有一露營車駕駛不得其門而入.jpg
露營地點,在私人露營地門口外,另有一露營車駕駛不得其門而入

z008282 2017-10-8 16:00 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
6/14 大廷伯--雷德洛治 90英里
Big Timber--Red lodge 90miles
6/15 在雷德洛治
In Red lodge
6/14又騎了兩份的距離,最近常這樣,一天騎兩天距離,然後做一休一。但是這段不是太困難,前半段沿者黃石河平行跨州高速公路是大順風。一直到約最後30公里才是很惱人的在草坡無窮盡陡上陡下。另外避免再被私人露營地拒之門外,我趕在8點半抵達。這是十分熱心的家庭式經營露營地,有廉價的小木屋,價格與青年旅館相仿(有暖氣與插座,無網路與棉被,共用衛浴)。
進入正題,為啥今天沒走?
早上7點正打算離開露營地時,老闆娘請我喝咖啡。他們正常商店開門時間是8點半,而早於開門時間的咖啡改變一切。
我昨天晚上找到一份資料,告知熊牙公路預計週五某時間開放。那是我不以為意,想說週四如期前進。號稱全美國最美麗的熊牙公路,一整年只開放約4個月,在開應該開放的旅遊旺季封閉,影響許多靠旅遊業維生的居民與觀光客,也包括我。而封閉的原因不只是雪,還有人禍,之後說明。
老闆娘聽了我的猶豫,我也聽了老闆娘對於道路封閉如何影響生意的抱怨。她建議我打電話確認,避免到了山頂因為積雪進退兩難。
官方機構只得到罐頭式回應,最後在老闆娘建議下,我打給『世界最高商店』,位於隘口西方8英里,店員跟我說:別想了,積雪很深,等除雪吧。
那為什麼道路封閉有部分的人禍原因?用時間線說明。首先要了解68英里的熊牙公路跨越兩州,東段是蒙大拿州,西段包含隘口是懷俄明州。
6/13 下雪了。下了一整天,但是溫度不夠低,山頂積雪約10-15公分。
6/14 放晴了。蒙大拿州道路團隊乖乖除雪到州界。懷俄明的除雪到『世界最高商店』附近。留下約12英里未除雪。
6/15 到底為啥不把工作做完?全鎮的居民和不知何去何從的觀光客都在問,也許不是他們的錯,但是兩州的道路團隊應該共同努力讓道路暢通,而不是一邊除到州界,一邊除雪到最後有人煙的地方,是吧。『他們在除雪了,明天應該會全程開放』,官方答案如出一轍。對我而言,明天必過隘口,否則明晚的陰雨天氣可能又會埋下變數。
I rode the distance in Jun.14 which I usually split the distance to 2 days. It was not hard to ride 90 miles in that day because of the tail wind in the first half section, which is flat along Yellowstone river. And the difficulty section is only in the final 20 miles, rolling grassy hills with lots of steep up and down. I made to the ** campground at 8:30pm in order not to be rejected to overnight there(which happened in Big Timber as the two post before.). It is a welcoming campground with budget cabins(with heat and plugs,no WiFi or bedding, non self-contained).
Back to the topic, why I am still in Red lodge today?
I got a information about road will reopen at sometime in Friday. But I didn't pay attention to it and thought of keep going today(Thursday). And the closure of Beartooth highway, which is also called “the most beautiful road of America”, influence lots of people, including tourists and townspeople who live on tourism, and me. The road is only open about 4 months in one year. Road closure when it should open and tourists floods to here, no way. Why the road is closed? There is some human factors other than the weather, described later.
I was at the ** campground office door at around 7 am. The manager invited me a coffee. They should open in 8:30. And “coffee earlier than expected open time” change my plan.
The manager heard my concerns about keep going or stay here today, the I heard the complaints about how road closure hurts the campground business from the manager. She suggested me to make calls to understand how many snows on the peak to avoid being stuck there.
I called to public service and no surprisingly, I got nothing information constructively. The manager suggested me to phone the “top of the world store”, I got something reliable: Don't think about it, you cannot pass the peak before the road is plowed.
So where is the human factor of road closure? You have to understand beartooth highway crosses two states: east part in Montana and west part (including the beartooth pass) in Wyoming. Let's see the timeline:
June 13: Snowed almost all day but not so cold. Snow accumulation is about 3-5 inches.
Jun 14: Sunny and warm. Montana road crew plowed to the state line. Wyoming crew plowed to long lake, near top of the world store. Left about 12 miles unplowed.
Jun 15:Everyone is wondering why they didn't plow the whole road. Maybe it's not their fault. But the two states road crew should work together to open the road, instead of just doing their part, that's what most people think. Whatever, we are told they are plowing the last section. But we still know the Friday(Jun 16) night might be another snow day.
To me , I have to pass the peak, and not wait until to next possible storm in Friday
雷德洛治街景.jpg
雷德洛治街景
最後30公里的不斷陡草坡上下,十分煩人.jpg
最後30公里的不斷陡草坡上下,十分煩人

满洲狼 2017-10-9 07:27 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
socially 2017-10-9 09:41 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
fubq 2017-10-9 10:30 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
好游记啊,看到了很多新鲜的景物和人物,心随文字走了一圈,开心~~~
苏宏晨 2017-10-15 01:07 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
z008282 2017-10-18 09:41 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
會議期間,流量受限,並未斷更,請稍安勿躁,謝謝
fred_yang 2017-10-18 13:09 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
值得来顶的帖子!美洲大陆风光无限,比好莱坞的影视大作还过瘾。很羡慕楼主生长在台湾、
gxp24567 2017-10-23 09:26 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
也羡慕楼主生活一个不同的人文环境的地方,好好珍惜吧!
z008282 2017-10-27 19:54 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
熊牙公路路線概說:東終點雷得洛治,西邊起點黃石公園門口。全長68英里,次高點夏季滑雪中心3273公尺位於43英里,最高點熊牙隘口3337公尺位於38英里,世界最高商店位於30英里,Cooke city位於3英里。
6/16 雷得洛治--夏季滑雪訓練中心(海拔)--搭車到Cooke city 騎車25英里,搭車40英里
6/17 Cooke city來回熊牙隘口,單程35英里
兩天爬了兩次熊牙公路!
6/16可以和干卓萬與比亞毫列為三大慘案,我必須攔車離開隘口附近的狂風高山草原。然後隔天天氣放晴,我不甘心的再騎回熊牙隘口,補完6/16因為天氣不佳未騎的路段。熊牙公路68英里本來是很單純的一個大上坡和一個大下坡,結果因為天氣狀況,6/16日我騎了東邊的上坡,攔車到西邊距離公路起點只有3英里的Cooke city,然後6/17騎了西邊的大上坡,等於兩天騎了兩個大上坡!
6/16出發前就預期天氣不會太好,但是避免因為高山下雪再被困在雷得洛治數日,我在6/15決定若是公路在早上開放就如期出發。為了等到公路開放的確切消息,出發時間拖到9點30。早上天氣還ok,但是過了州界(也就是之前道路封閉路段)進入高山草原,狀況急轉直下,雨雪交加不是最糟的,風大到我無法騎車,甚至連站立都有困難,勉強牽車2英里到夏季滑雪訓練中心,本來想說也許可以在這裡過夜(非正式旅館),翌日再前行,但是我被告知『這裡沒空間過夜。』
滑雪訓練中心海拔3273公尺,海拔已經接近熊牙隘口的海拔3337公尺,兩地距離5英里,相隔一個草坡淺谷,再之後路程幾乎一路下坡,若不是強風輕而易舉。但是在不確定無遮蔽的狂風草坡的距離,加上雨勢越來越大,我必須攔車找貴人了。
這個家庭是我這幾天遇到的第二個貴人家庭,另一個家庭請看相片。他們先載我到距離滑雪訓練中心13英里,隘口8英里的『世界最高的商店』。而被告知世界最高商店已無空房後,我有些掙扎的決定再往搭車前到Cooke city(原本計畫是在商店住一晚,翌日天氣好可返回隘口之後再慢慢前行),這也代表我似乎得搭車走完大部分的熊牙公路,加上上坡騎車,下坡搭車的反常運作模式,但是天氣狀況只能如此。商店老闆還一直安慰我說:你沒損失太多。當然我不會損失太大,隔天天氣好就往回騎了!
熊牙公路的美,主要在於它提供三種截然不同的景觀,從雷得洛治開始,首先沿者rock 小溪蜿蜒6英里,接下來道路在風化的落石區髮夾灣上坡,7英里抵達州界後,道路景觀變成像武嶺的高山草原,最後道路髮夾灣下坡到有三個直到七月才全部融化的湖泊的冰原,經過世界最高商店後,道路再度進入森林,著名的熊牙湖已在不遠處。
Important mileage on Beartooth highway:
Start point is Yellowstone gate on the east side, ends in Red lodge on the west side. 68 miles in total distance,
summer ski and snowboard camp(second highest point:3273m) on 43 milepost.
Highest point beartooth pass on 38 milepost
Top of the world store on 30 mp
Cooke city on 3 mp
6/16 Red lodge--summer ski and snowboard camp--hitch hike to Cooke city, cycle 25 miles, car ride 40 miles
6/17 Cooke city to Beartooth round trip, 35 miles single way
Two long distance climbs of Beartooth highway in two days!
Miserable day on June16, and I had to hitchhike to leave the windy grassy highland near the pass. But I am not willing to give up riding on the beartooth highway, so I went back to pass on Jun. 17! The 68-miles beartooth highway should be a pure long distance uphill and a downhill, but I indeed rode TWO UPHILLS. I rode from Red lodge, the east end of highway on June 16, hitchhike near the pass to Cooke city, just 3 miles to the west end of the highway. And did a round trip to the pass from the Cooke city on the next day.
Drizzle as expected on June 16, but I decided to hit the road after hear the reopening of beartooth highway, in order not to be stuck in Red lodge for more days because of road closure arises from the coming snowy weather in mountains. It wasn't too bad in the morning, but after crossing the stateline and went into grassy highland, it became too windy to ride. Strong gust goes with sleet, I walked the bicycle for 2 miles to the summer ski and snowboard camp, where a chance of informal accommodation and a warm bed, but I was told that there is no space for me to overnight.
The ski camp is where I met the helpful family. They took me to the top of the world store, 13 miles away from the ski camp, where I planned to spend the night and finish/enjoy the last section of beartooth highway on the next day. But no vacancy there. I struggled but still decided to take the free and friendly ride to Cooke city. Lucky to have the 40 miles ride, but I passed the most part of beartooth highway in less than 1 hour, and I didn't have any time to stop for any scenery. That's why I decided to go back to the pass the other day. I don't want to miss any part the “most beautiful highway in US".
The beauty of beartooth highway is tourists could expect diverse scenery in short distance. Starting from east end of lovely town, Red lodge, Rock valley, where forest and campgrounds is located, is substituted by treeless switchbacks section, where is also vulnerable to falling rocks. After the 7 miles switchbacks, the road crosses the stateline and goes into grassy highland, and the beartooth pass is only 7 miles away. Leave the pass and keep going to west, tourists will see 3 beautiful lakes, which is only totally melt until July. After short break in the top of the world store, tourists will go into another forest/valley, and scenic beartooth lake is just few miles away.


PS:
在雷得洛治的pear’s私人露營地遇到第一組貴人,老闆家庭不但邀我共進早晚餐,還帶我到有錢朋友家玩保齡球(他的朋友本來養北美野牛,有一天挖到石油,之後改養名車,在家裡建兩條保齡球道也不稀奇了)。對我來說,除了食宿的恩惠,與本來是陌生人的家庭打成一片,有說有笑,如上一段的對話,還有上一篇貼文提到的關於道路封閉的討論等,都難得可貴。

"Why the so-called Cheese cuisine is defined as deep fried everything?”
『為什麼這裡的中式餐廳,就是把所有的食材拿去熱炒?』.jpg
『為什麼這裡的中式餐廳,就是把所有的食材拿去熱炒?』
從風雨中拯救我的一家人.jpg
從風雨中拯救我的一家人
熊牙公路,Rock小溪與露營區.jpg
熊牙公路,Rock小溪與露營區
熊牙公路,隘口.jpg
熊牙公路,隘口
熊牙公路,隘口西側髮夾灣,與路上眾多的機車騎士.jpg
熊牙公路,隘口西側髮夾灣,與路上眾多的機車騎士
熊牙公路,隘口西側髮夾灣.jpg
熊牙公路,隘口西側髮夾灣
熊牙公路,隘口西側路景.jpg
熊牙公路,隘口西側路景
熊牙公路,隘口西側雪牆.jpg
熊牙公路,隘口西側雪牆
熊牙公路,東側(雷德洛治)髮夾灣與工程車.jpg
熊牙公路,東側(雷德洛治)髮夾灣與工程車
熊牙公路,雷德洛治路段.jpg
熊牙公路,雷德洛治路段
熊牙公路,平臺即為上張照片的展望平臺.jpg
熊牙公路,平臺即為上張照片的展望平臺
熊牙公路,森林帶前的草坡.jpg
熊牙公路,森林帶前的草坡
熊牙公路,西側接近Cooke city路景.jpg
熊牙公路,西側接近Cooke city路景
熊牙公路,熊牙湖— 在.jpg
熊牙公路,熊牙湖— 在
熊牙公路,熊牙湖西側.jpg
熊牙公路,熊牙湖西側
熊牙公路,展望平臺.jpg
熊牙公路,展望平臺

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