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z008282 2017-10-7 16:16 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
6/11 白硫磺溫泉鎮(white sulphur springs))--大廷伯(big timber) 94英里(94 miles)
累死人的一天。
原本計畫不是這樣的。89號景觀跨州公路接到跨州高速公路後,就該找地方過夜,但是實際情形有點失控。
先說明跨州高速公路(interstate,就像台灣的國道高速公路)對於自行車的規範。大部分州與大城市(例如紐約舊金山等)都禁止自行車騎上跨州高速公路,但是有許多例外,搞清楚這些規範不容易,但是卻容易現場判斷。
相信我,自行車絕對是不會想騎上跨州高速公路,即使有寬闊路況良好的路肩,除非你很喜歡看橫死街頭的動物,蒙大拿速限80英里(約130公里)還算低的。但是在沒有替代道路的情況,或是跨州高速公路取代原有道路,自行車只能騎上跨州高速公路,這些狀況並不會禁止自行車使用。所謂替代道路指的是平行道路,而非需要翻山越嶺繞ㄧ大圈的道路。這些平行提到道路的名稱往往是:frontage road或old U.S xx(舊美國xx號公路)等。
蒙大拿是少數允許自行車使用跨州高速公路的州。但是我還是盡量使用平行道路。從89號景觀道路岔路口到大廷伯27英里,跨州高速公路沿者黃石河興建,沿路有許多釣魚場地(fushing access site)提供露營,但是它們無人看守,而露營費一晚18美金,但是我最小面額鈔票是50美金,而且找不到地方換錢。我不想知道不付錢的下場。
最後在晚上8點來到大廷伯,離日落時間還有約1小時半,最近的私人露營區離城鎮中心3英里。我決定先吃晚餐再過去。在大約9點到露營場地後,閘門已放下,有個牌子寫到:
『夜已深,我們關門了,閘門旁邊的青草地隨便你用。』
夜已深個頭,太陽都還沒下山。只不過住免錢合法的也好。約半小時後,有輛露營車來了,駕駛跟我一樣傻眼。我把手機借他聯絡露營場地主人,電話有通但是閘門還是沒開。有些年紀的露營車駕駛是『網路導遊(internet travel guide)』,工作內容大概是上網po照片寫遊記
等。我們翌日早上在咖啡店聊了一會兒。新朋友和免費露營地,全因為我遲到,因禍得福,
接下來兩天是明天過後的重頭戲,找了旅館乖乖躲起來不出門囉。接下來由號稱美國最美公路的熊牙公路(beartooth highway)前往黃石國家公園。
94 miles in one day, exhausted.
The plan wasn't this, but the plan went south with me. I should find a campsites after the junction of highway 89 and interstate. But I failed. Let me briefly introduce the regulations for bicycles on the interstate highway.
The thumb of the rule is “cyclists should avoid using the interstate highway.”. And it's forbidden in most cases. Believe me, you don't want to cycle on the interstate highway, even on the well-maintained wide shoulder. Unless you like to see “dogs or mammots pancake” on the way. But there are still many exceptions. Montana is one of the states allows cyclists to use the interstate highway. Also, when alternative road is absent(“ alternative road” means a paved road parallels the interstate, not the one the cyclist need to detour for mush distance longer. The alternative road is usually name frontage roads or old road, and could be searched on google map.
Frontage road of Interstate 90, which I rode in most of time after the junction of highway 89, built along Yellowstone river, which lots of fishing access site provide primitive campground nearby. I found one unstaffed, but I don't have smaller note for the 18 dollars camping fee. No access to exchange for smaller banknotes, either. I don't want to know the consequences of failing to pay.
I arrived Big Timber on 8 p.m., and nearest campground is located 3 miles from downtown. I decided to have supper before heading there. I arrived at the campground at around 9:10pm, it was already gated for the night, but the sun was still above the horizon(the sunset time is about9:30pm.) I also saw a signpost to the late arrivers to overnight on the grassy field next to the gate. A free and legal campsite, why not?
A RV came at around 9:30pm. The driver was also suprised that the campground was gated. I lent him my mobil to call the campground office. The call was answered but he still have no accesse to get in. I had a little chat with the RV driver, also a internet tour guide next morning. A new friend and a free campground, these good things happened because I was too late to arrive, because something that should be a disaster.
After the camping day, comes two days of winter severe weather conditions. I stayed in Big Timber for this two days. After that, go to Yellowstone national park by beartooth highway, the one of the most scenic road in USA.
黃石河岸釣魚場地,許多供露營.jpg
黃石河岸釣魚場地,許多供露營
露營地點,在私人露營地門口外,另有一露營車駕駛不得其門而入.jpg
露營地點,在私人露營地門口外,另有一露營車駕駛不得其門而入

z008282 2017-10-8 16:00 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
6/14 大廷伯--雷德洛治 90英里
Big Timber--Red lodge 90miles
6/15 在雷德洛治
In Red lodge
6/14又騎了兩份的距離,最近常這樣,一天騎兩天距離,然後做一休一。但是這段不是太困難,前半段沿者黃石河平行跨州高速公路是大順風。一直到約最後30公里才是很惱人的在草坡無窮盡陡上陡下。另外避免再被私人露營地拒之門外,我趕在8點半抵達。這是十分熱心的家庭式經營露營地,有廉價的小木屋,價格與青年旅館相仿(有暖氣與插座,無網路與棉被,共用衛浴)。
進入正題,為啥今天沒走?
早上7點正打算離開露營地時,老闆娘請我喝咖啡。他們正常商店開門時間是8點半,而早於開門時間的咖啡改變一切。
我昨天晚上找到一份資料,告知熊牙公路預計週五某時間開放。那是我不以為意,想說週四如期前進。號稱全美國最美麗的熊牙公路,一整年只開放約4個月,在開應該開放的旅遊旺季封閉,影響許多靠旅遊業維生的居民與觀光客,也包括我。而封閉的原因不只是雪,還有人禍,之後說明。
老闆娘聽了我的猶豫,我也聽了老闆娘對於道路封閉如何影響生意的抱怨。她建議我打電話確認,避免到了山頂因為積雪進退兩難。
官方機構只得到罐頭式回應,最後在老闆娘建議下,我打給『世界最高商店』,位於隘口西方8英里,店員跟我說:別想了,積雪很深,等除雪吧。
那為什麼道路封閉有部分的人禍原因?用時間線說明。首先要了解68英里的熊牙公路跨越兩州,東段是蒙大拿州,西段包含隘口是懷俄明州。
6/13 下雪了。下了一整天,但是溫度不夠低,山頂積雪約10-15公分。
6/14 放晴了。蒙大拿州道路團隊乖乖除雪到州界。懷俄明的除雪到『世界最高商店』附近。留下約12英里未除雪。
6/15 到底為啥不把工作做完?全鎮的居民和不知何去何從的觀光客都在問,也許不是他們的錯,但是兩州的道路團隊應該共同努力讓道路暢通,而不是一邊除到州界,一邊除雪到最後有人煙的地方,是吧。『他們在除雪了,明天應該會全程開放』,官方答案如出一轍。對我而言,明天必過隘口,否則明晚的陰雨天氣可能又會埋下變數。
I rode the distance in Jun.14 which I usually split the distance to 2 days. It was not hard to ride 90 miles in that day because of the tail wind in the first half section, which is flat along Yellowstone river. And the difficulty section is only in the final 20 miles, rolling grassy hills with lots of steep up and down. I made to the ** campground at 8:30pm in order not to be rejected to overnight there(which happened in Big Timber as the two post before.). It is a welcoming campground with budget cabins(with heat and plugs,no WiFi or bedding, non self-contained).
Back to the topic, why I am still in Red lodge today?
I got a information about road will reopen at sometime in Friday. But I didn't pay attention to it and thought of keep going today(Thursday). And the closure of Beartooth highway, which is also called “the most beautiful road of America”, influence lots of people, including tourists and townspeople who live on tourism, and me. The road is only open about 4 months in one year. Road closure when it should open and tourists floods to here, no way. Why the road is closed? There is some human factors other than the weather, described later.
I was at the ** campground office door at around 7 am. The manager invited me a coffee. They should open in 8:30. And “coffee earlier than expected open time” change my plan.
The manager heard my concerns about keep going or stay here today, the I heard the complaints about how road closure hurts the campground business from the manager. She suggested me to make calls to understand how many snows on the peak to avoid being stuck there.
I called to public service and no surprisingly, I got nothing information constructively. The manager suggested me to phone the “top of the world store”, I got something reliable: Don't think about it, you cannot pass the peak before the road is plowed.
So where is the human factor of road closure? You have to understand beartooth highway crosses two states: east part in Montana and west part (including the beartooth pass) in Wyoming. Let's see the timeline:
June 13: Snowed almost all day but not so cold. Snow accumulation is about 3-5 inches.
Jun 14: Sunny and warm. Montana road crew plowed to the state line. Wyoming crew plowed to long lake, near top of the world store. Left about 12 miles unplowed.
Jun 15:Everyone is wondering why they didn't plow the whole road. Maybe it's not their fault. But the two states road crew should work together to open the road, instead of just doing their part, that's what most people think. Whatever, we are told they are plowing the last section. But we still know the Friday(Jun 16) night might be another snow day.
To me , I have to pass the peak, and not wait until to next possible storm in Friday
雷德洛治街景.jpg
雷德洛治街景
最後30公里的不斷陡草坡上下,十分煩人.jpg
最後30公里的不斷陡草坡上下,十分煩人

满洲狼 2017-10-9 07:27 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
socially 2017-10-9 09:41 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
fubq 2017-10-9 10:30 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
好游记啊,看到了很多新鲜的景物和人物,心随文字走了一圈,开心~~~
苏宏晨 2017-10-15 01:07 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
z008282 2017-10-18 09:41 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
會議期間,流量受限,並未斷更,請稍安勿躁,謝謝
fred_yang 2017-10-18 13:09 | 显示全部楼层 | 举报
值得来顶的帖子!美洲大陆风光无限,比好莱坞的影视大作还过瘾。很羡慕楼主生长在台湾、
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